J7e,si<  dopy 
HANDBOOK.  OF 

ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


ETTA  PROCTOR  FLAGS 


Department  of  Home  Economic* 

University  of  California 
405  HilV'ard  Avenue 

r|f.<.  ^mpiftf,  24.  Calif^rnip 


THE  LIBRARY 
OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 
LOS  ANGELES 


GIFT 


SCHOOL  OF  OK  ECOROiCS 

STATE  NOR/VIAL  SCHOOL 


Department  of  Home  Economics 
University  of  California 

405  E:lgard  Avenue 
Los  Angeles  24,  California 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2013 


http://archive.org/details/handbookofelemenOOflag_0 


A  HANDBOOK  OF 
ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


A  HANDBOOK  OF 
ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


ARRANGED  BY 

ETTA  PROCTOR  FLAGG 

SUPERVISOR  OF  HOME  ECONOMICS  IN 
THE  LOS  ANGELES  CITY  SCHOOLS 


ILL  US  TEA  TED  FROM  PHOTOGRAPHS 
AND  DIAGRAMS 


BOSTON 

LITTLE,  BROWN,  AND  COMPANY 
1915 


Copyright,  1915, 
By  Little,  Brown,  and  Compant. 

All  rights  reserved 
Published,  May,  1915 


Set  up  and  electrotyped  by  J.  S.  Cushing  Co.,  Norwood,  Mass. ,  U.S.A. 
Presswork  by  S.  J.  Parkhill&  Co.,  Boston,  Mass.,  U.S.A. 


no 


PREFACE 

This  course  has  been  arranged  for  the  elementary 
schools  of  Los  Angeles,  California.  It  has  been 
worked  out  to  meet  the  conditions  that  exist  in  that 
city  and  may  be  taught  satisfactorily  by  the  grade 
teachers  as  far  as  the  seventh  grade. 

A  few  of  the  suggestions  have  already  been  printed 
in  the  School  Arts  Magazine  and  are  reprinted  through 
the  courtesy  of  the  publishers.  My  assistants  in  the 
department  have  given  me  many  valuable  sugges- 
tions, and  I  am  also  indebted  to  the  art  department 
for  assistance  in  simple  designs. 


SCHOOL 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Preface  .  v 

PART  I 

General  Directions   1 

Stitches  used  in  the  Fourth  Grade  ....  2 

Stitches  used  in  the  Fifth  Grade    ....  4 

Utensils  and  Materials   16 

PART  II 

Outline  of  Work.    Fourth  Grade   27 

Fifth  Grade   31 

Sixth  Grade   41 

Seventh  and  Eighth  Grades  .       .  53 

Supplementary  Work    .......  54 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

Doilies,  Sewing  Case,  Bookmarker,  Towel  with  Swedish 


Weaving.    Full  Page  .       .       .       .       .  Frontispiece 

PAGE 

Hemming  Stitch  as  it  looks  on  the  Right  Side  ...  7 
Hemming  Stitch  as  it  looks  on  the  Wrong  Side,  and  How 

to  Join  the  Thread   8 

Top  Sewing-needle  in  Position   11 

Buttonhole   13 

Felled  Seam   15 

Pinwheel,  Xeedle  Case,  Sewing  Bag,  Laundry  Bag,  Holder, 

Towel.    Full  Page   28 

Doll's  Sunbonnet  showing  Squares  Cut  Out  and  One  Side 

Overcast   31 

Stocking  Darning   36 

Draft  of  Sewing  Apron   38 

Cooking  Apron   42 

Fifth  and  Sixth  Grade  Bags.  Full  Page  ....  46 
Diagram  of  Cross  Stitch  Bag     .       .       .       .       .  .46 

Draft  for  Cap   50 

Dusting  Cap   .       .  .51 

Supplementary  Work.    Designs  in  Cross  Stitch  and  Em- 
broidery for  Underwear.    Full  Page  ....  54 

Inside  of  Magazine  Cover   56 

Laundry  Bag   57 

Rubber  Bag  showing  Feather-stitching  with  Needle  in 

Position   58 

Pattern  for  Apron,  One-eighth  Size    .       ....  61 

Fancy  Apron,  One-eighth  Size   68 

Pattern  for  Front  and  Side  Gore  of  Skirt  ....  69 


A  HANDBOOK  OF 
ELEMENTARY  SEWING 

PART  I 
GENERAL  DIRECTIONS 

The  pupil  should  provide  herself  with  the  following 
articles : 

A  bag  or  box  in  which  to  keep  everything. 
One  paper  of  Milward's  needles  Nos.  3  to  9. 
One  paper  of  crewel  needles  No.  4. 
A  pair  of  small  scissors. 
A  tape  measure. 

A  spool  of  white  thread,  Clark's  or  Coats's,  No.  70. 
A  steel  or  silver  thimble. 

The  thread  should  be  marked  with  the  name  of  the 
owner,  and  the  scissors  should  have  a  tag  with  the 
owner's  name  written  upon  it. 

See  that  the  hands  are  perfectly  clean. 

Let  the  light  come  from  behind  and  over  the  left 
shoulder  if  possible. 

Always  work  with  a  thimble  that  fits  the  finger. 

When  obliged  to  take  out  stitches,  use  the  eye-end 
of  the  needle  and  pick  out  one  stitch  at  a  time. 
1 


2    A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


If  left-handed,  work  with  the  left  hand,  unless  the 
parents  are  unwilling. 

Be  sure  that  nothing  is  left  unfinished  at  the  end  of 
the  term. 

STITCHES  USED  IN  THE  FOURTH  GRADE 

Basting.  There  are  two  kinds  of  basting  that  are 
commonly  used :  the  even  and  the  uneven.  For  both 
the  work  should  be  held  in  the  same  way.  Place  the 
work  over  the  forefinger  of  the  left  hand  and  work 
from  right  to  left. 

Uneven  Basting.  Tie  a  knot  in  the  thread.  Take 
a  small  stitch  one  eighth  of  an  inch  long,  carry  the 
needle  on  half  an  inch,  take  another  eighth-inch  stitch. 
Continue  in  the  same  manner.  Fasten  with  two  small 
stitches  taken  over  each  other. 

This  is  used  for  simple  decoration  and  for  a  tempo- 
rary fastening  for  seams  or  hems  where  no  strain  comes. 

Even  Basting.  Thread  as  before ;  make  the  stitches 
all  one  fourth  of  an  inch  in  length ;  fasten  as  before. 

This  is  used  for  seams  where  any  strain  may  come, 
and  also  by  very  young  children  for  simple  decoration. 

Overcasting.  Hold  work  over  the  left  forefinger, 
working  from  right  to  left.  Fasten  thread  with  two 
small  stitches  on  the  wrong  side  of  the  cloth.  Place 
the  needle  one  eighth  of  an  inch  below  the  edge  or  fold ; 
point  the  needle  to  the  left  shoulder;  take  the  next 
stitch  one  fourth  of  an  inch  to  the  left;  continue  to 
the  end  of  the  seam ;  fasten  with  two  small  stitches. 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  3 


Running  Stitch.  Fasten  the  thread  with  two  small 
stitches.  Carry  the  needle  forward  one  sixteenth  of 
an  inch  and  take  one  sixteenth  of  an  inch  stitch  through 
the  cloth.    Continue  these  even  stitches. 

In  gathering,  use  the  running  stitch  but  tie  a  small, 
firm  knot  in  the  thread  before  beginning.  In  running, 
hold  the  work  in  both  hands  and  take  several  stitches 
before  drawing  the  needle  through  the  cloth. 

Blanket  Stitch.  The  blanket  stitch  is  used  for 
finishing  raw  edges,  for  working  the  loop  and  the 
bar  used  in  buttonholes,  and  for  simple  embroidery. 
It  is  worked  from  left  to  right ;  the  buttonhole  stitch 
from  right  to  left. 

The  depth  of  the  stitch  and  the  space  between  the 
stitches  may  be  varied  and  will  depend  upon  its  use. 
Great  care  must  be  taken  in  joining  and  in  fastening 
the  thread,  or  the  edge  will  be  uneven.  To  fasten  the 
thread  used  in  blanket  stitching,  turn  to  the  wrong 
side,  take  a  couple  of  running  stitches  under  the  last 
blanket  stitch,  draw  the  needle  through,  and  cut  off 
the  thread.  To  join  the  thread,  run  the  needle  in 
under  the  last  stitch,  as  in  the  beginning  of  the  work, 
and  draw  it  out  over  the  thread  that  lies  along  the 
edge. 

For  Canvas  or  Heavy  Cloth.  Insert  the  needle  on  the 
wrong  side  at  a  point  the  desired  depth  of  the  blanket 
stitch  and  take  two  or  three  running  stitches  to  the  edge 
of  the  cloth;  this  will  bring  the  thread  in  position  for 
the  first  stitch.    Make  the  first  blanket  stitch  over 


4   A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


these  running  stitches.  Holding  the  edge  of  the  cloth 
toward  you,  insert  the  needle  from  above  at  the  same 
point  as  before  and  bring  it  out  over  the  thread;  draw 
the  loop  thus  made  to  the  edge  of  the  cloth.  Repeat 
for  successive  stitches.  For  a  simple  finish,  make  the 
stitches  on  the  flannel  as  far  apart  as  they  are  deep. 
For  a  more  ornamental  finish,  place  several  stitches  in  a 
group,  or  the  stitches  may  be  of  different  lengths,  or 
spaces  may  be  left  between  the  groups  of  stitches. 

For  Embroidering  an  Edge.  Take  the  stitches  as 
before  but  place  them  close  together,  so  as  to  make  a 
firm  edge.  If  desired,  the  edge  may  be  padded  before 
working;  the  padding  is  done  by  working  along  the 
edge  with  either  the  chain  or  the  outline  stitch. 

Cross-stitch.  The  cross-stitch  is  used  wholly  as  a 
decorative  stitch,  usually  on  art  canvas  or  so-called 
cross-stitch  canvas.  The  stitch  is  worked  from  right 
to  left  and  is  made  by  taking  small  stitches  diagonally, 
in  holes  prepared  for  them,  and  then  reversing  and 
crossing  every  stitch  made  in  the  first  row. 

STITCHES  USED  IN  THE  FIFTH  GRADE 

Stitching.  Stitching  is  so  called  because  it  looks  like 
machine  stitching.  It  is  also  known  as  back  stitching. 
Stitching  is  done  by  taking  a  very  short  stitch  back- 
ward on  the  upper  side  of  the  cloth  and  a  longer  stitch 
forward  on  the  under  side,  making  the  stitches  meet  on 
the  top,  as  in  machine  stitching.    Fasten  with  two 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  5 

small  stitches.  Hold  the  work  over  the  left  forefinger 
and  work  from  right  to  left. 

Half-back  stitching  is  the  same  as  stitching,  except 
that  the  needle  is  put  only  half  way  back,  thus  leaving 
a  small  space  between  the  stitches.  Both  of  these 
stitches  may  be  used  where  strength  is  required,  or  on 
garments  too  small  to  be  stitched  easily  on  the  machine. 

Hemming.  A  hem  is  a  fold  made  by  turning  the 
edge  of  the  cloth  over  twice  and  then  sewing  it  down. 
The  first  fold  must  be  very  carefully  turned;  if  that  is 
even,  there  will  be  very  little  trouble  with  the  second 
turning.  Trim  the  edge  of  the  cloth  before  turning  the 
hem.  Make  the  first  turning  very  narrow,  about  one 
fourth  of  an  inch,  or,  better  still,  one  eighth  of  an  inch, 
unless  the  material  is  very  difficult  to  turn.  Use  a 
measure  for  all  hems  except  the  very  narrow.  Baste 
near  the  edge  of  the  fold  with  uneven  basting  stitches. 

Have  no  knot  in  the  thread;  hold  the  cloth  across  the 
cushion  of  the  left  forefinger  ;  pointing  the  needle  from 
you,  insert  it  at  the  edge  of  the  fold,  one  fourth  of  an 
inch  from  the  right  end,  and  bring  it  out  close  to  the  end. 
Draw  the  needle  through  very  carefully  and  leave  half 
an  inch  of  the  thread  to  be  tucked  under  the  edge  of  the 
hem  with  the  point  of  the  needle.  Take  up  two  threads 
of  the  cloth  and  set  the  needle  into  the  edge  of  the  hem, 
keeping  the  needle  in  a  line  with  the  hem  and  pointing 
to  the  left  shoulder.    Be  sure  that  all  stitches  slant. 

To  Join  the  Thread.  If  there  is  no  end  left,  pick  out 
a  few  stitches.    With  the  needle  draw  the  end  under  the 


6   A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


fold  and  toward  the  thumb.  Begin  with  a  new  needle- 
ful, as  when  commencing  the  work,  and  put  the  needle 
into  the  last  hole  from  which  the  short  end  came  out, 
sewing  both  ends  down  with  the  next  few  stitches. 

Featherstitching.  The  featherstitch  is  an  ornamen- 
tal stitch;  it  must  be  evenly  done  or  it  is  worse  than  no 
stitch  at  all.  This  stitch  consists  of  two  parallel  rows 
of  alternating  stitches,  or  groups  of  stitches,  slanting 
toward  the  center.  Keep  the  same  length  of  stitch 
and  the  same  slant. 

Single  Featherstitching.  Work  toward  you,  holding 
the  work  over  the  left  forefinger.  Insert  the  needle 
from  the  under  side  a  short  distance  to  the  right  or  left 
of  the  line  to  be  followed  and  draw  the  thread  through. 
Place  the  left  thumb  over  the  thread  to  hold  it  down,  and 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  center  line,  take  up  a  slanting 
stitch;  the  top  of  the  stitch  is  as  far  from  the  center 
line  as  the  length  of  the  stitch,  and  the  bottom  touches 
the  center  line.  Draw  the  needle  out  over  the  thread, 
which  will  in  this  way  form  a  loop  of  the  thread  from 
the  first  stitch.  On  the  opposite  side,  take  up  another 
slanting  stitch,  the  top  of  which  is  an  equal  distance 
from  the  center  line  and  even  with  the  bottom  of  the 
last  stitch.  Repeat  for  successive  stitches.  At  the 
end  of  a  thread,  fasten  by  passing  the  needle  down 
where  the  thread  last  came  through  the  cloth,  thus 
holding  the  loop  from  the  last  stitch  in  place.  Fasten 
the  thread  on  the  wrong  side  by  taking  a  few  running 
stitches  through  one  thickness  of  cloth.    Begin  a  new 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  7 


thread  by  passing  the  needle  up  through  the  loop  from 
the  last  stitch. 

Double  Featherstitching.  This  is  made  by  doubling 
the  number  of  stitches  on  either  side,  or  by  using  groups 
of  three  stitches  alternately.  Be  very  careful  that  the 
stitches  of  each  group  are  placed  exactly  under  each 
other. 

Outline  Stitch.  Fasten  with  two  back  stitches, 
keeping  the  thread  above  the  needle,  — that  is,  to  the 
left;  then  take  up  with  the  needle  an  eighth  of  an  inch 
of  cloth  and  bring  the  needle  out  through  the  hole 
made  in  starting  the  stitch.  Be  careful  not  to  pierce 
the  thread.  Proceed  in  the  same  manner.  On  the 
wrong  side  the  stitch  should  look  like  back  stitch. 

Hemstitching.  Several  different  methods  of  hem- 
stitching are  used,  and  any  one  of  them  will  prove 
satisfactory  if  well  done. 


Showing  the  Work  with  the  Hemming  Stitch  as  it  looks 
on  the  Right  Side. 


8    A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 

To  draw  the  thread,  choose  a  rather  coarse  thread  the 
desired  distance  from  the  edge  and  pick  it  out  carefully 
with  the  point  of  the  needle.  Hold  this  end  with  the 
right  hand  and  draw  it  out  carefully,  pushing  the  gathers 
toward  the  opposite  end  with  the  left  hand.  When  the 
thread  breaks,  hold  the  cloth  to  the  light,  and  again 
pick  out  the  end  of  the  thread.  Draw  as  many  threads 
as  desired.    Baste  the  edge  of  the  hem  very  carefully 


Showing  the  Hemming  Stitch  as  it  looks  on  the  Wrong 
Side,  and  how  to  join  the  Thread. 


to  the  edge  of  the  drawn  threads.  Hold  the  edge  of 
the  cloth  over  the  left  forefinger,  as  in  hemming. 
Fasten  the  thread  by  taking  two  or  three  small  stitches 
in  the  edge  of  the  fold. 

Begin  at  the  right  side,  as  in  hemming.  Pointing  the 
needle  toward  you,  take  up  three  or  four  cross  threads 
and  draw  the  needle  through.  Put  the  needle  back, 
take  up  the  same  threads,  and  insert  the  needle  exactly 
above  in  the  fold  of  the  hem.  Continue  in  the  same 
manner,  drawing  the  thread  tight,  to  separate  the 
clusters  of  cross  threads. 


SCHf'*:  Of  "%r  FOOPSflPs 

A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMElSrTA^Y  SEWING  9 

A  Second  Method.  Pointing  the  needle  toward  you, 
and  holding  the  thread  under  the  left  thumb,  take 
up  three  or  four  cross  threads  on  the  needle.  Draw  the 
needle  out  over  the  thread,  thus  forming  a  loop,  and 
tight  enough  to  separate  the  cross  threads.  Insert 
the  needle  under  the  edge  of  the  hem  only  and  take  an 
ordinary  hemming  stitch.  Continue  along  the  hem  in 
the  same  manner. 

Seed  Stitch.  This  stitch  is  used  for  finishing  hems 
in  an  ornamental  manner  or  where  a  simple,  effective 
touch  is  desired. 

Take  three  short  stitches  (an  eighth  of  an  inch)  over 
each  other;  one  back  stitch  going  forward  one  fourth 
of  an  inch  beyond  the  last  stitch;  back  one  eighth  of  an 
inch;  sew  over  twice;  forward  as  before. 

Use  embroidery  cotton  to  develop  this  stitch. 

Sewing  on  Lace.  When  sewing  lace  to  an  edge, 
always  hold  the  lace  next  to  you.  Lace  may  be  sewed 
on  straight,  or  it  may  be  gathered.  At  the  top  of  most 
laces  a  coarse  thread  may  be  found  woven  into  the  lace 
for  the  purpose  of  gathering.  Before  drawing  up  this 
thread,  divide  the  lace  into  fourths;  pin,  with  right 
sides  together,  at  point  of  division.  Draw  up  the 
thread,  arranging  the  gathers  evenly,  and  top  sew  to  the 
edge  with  fine,  even  stitches.  If  the  lace  is  to  be  put 
on  plain,  hold  it  loosely  to  the  edge  and  top  sew. 

Sewing  Lace  around  a  Corner,  W^hen  sewing  lace  on 
plain,  to  sew  around  the  corner,  top  sew  to  a  point  as 
far  from  the  corner  as  the  width  of  the  lace.  Measure 


10   A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


from  this  point  on  the  lace  twice  the  width  of  the  lace 
and  pin  to  the  corner.  Measure  an  equal  distance 
from  the  corner  on  the  lace  and  pin  to  the  other  side. 
Continue  top  sewing  from  this  point  and  leave  the 
corner  until  later.  When  the  rest  is  all  done,  run  a 
gathering  thread  into  the  corners,  arrange  the  gathers 
evenly,  and  top  sew  as  usual. 

Sewing  Lace  around  a  Corner  (Gathered).  When  sew- 
ing lace  around  a  corner,  proceed  as  before,  with  this 
exception:  the  same  fullness  must  be  allowed  on  the 
corner  that  is  allowed  on  the  straight  edge,  in  addition 
to  that  required  for  rounding  the  corner  without  draw- 
ing; allow  two  and  one  half  times  the  width  of  the  lace 
instead  of  twice  the  width. 

Sewing  Two  Ends  of  Lace  Together.  If  the  lace  has 
a  pattern,  cut  it  with  the  pattern;  lay  one  edge  over 
the  other  and  buttonhole  over  each  raw  edge  with  fine 
thread,  or  place  the  right  sides  of  the  lace  together  and 
sew  in  a  narrow  seam ;  lay  the  seam  flat  and  buttonhole 
over  the  raw  edge  and  at  the  same  time  down  on  the 
lace.  If  desired,  turn  a  narrow  fold  in  one  piece  of  the 
lace  to  the  right  side  and  in  the  other  piece  to  the  wrong 
side;  slip  one  under  the  other  and  hem  down  the  two 
edges. 

Herringbone  or  Catch  Stitch.  "  The  herringbone 
stitch  is  a  cross-stitch  used  as  a  finish  on  flannel  edges 
or  on  heavy  material.  The  stitch  consists  of  single, 
alternating,  running  stitches,  made  first  to  the  left  and 
then  to  the  right,  from  you  instead  of  toward  you  as  in 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  11 


ordinary  sewing.  The  thread,  being  carried  across 
from  one  stitch  to  another,  gives  the  appearance  of  a 
cross-stitch.  The  stitches  on  each  side  must  be  in 
straight  rows,  with  the  outer  row  just  over  the  edge  of 
the  material.  Point  the  needle  toward  you  in  making 
the  stitch,  but  work  from  you.  In  catch  stitching  a 
small  knot  may  be  used,  if  it  can  be  concealed.  Fasten 
the  thread  by  running  it  in  and  out  and  under  the  last 
stitch." 

Top  Sewing.  "  Top  sewing  is  used  for  joining  two 
folded  edges  or  two  selvages.    Hold  the  work  between 


Top  Sewing-Needle  in  Position. 

the  thumb  and  forefinger  of  the  left  hand,  the  seam 
parallel  with  the  finger.  Leave  one  half  an  inch  of 
thread  after  making  a  shallow  stitch  through  one  edge 
of  the  cloth,  the  needle  pointing  toward  the  chest. 
Lay  this  end  of  thread  on  top  of  the  seam  so  that  it  may 
be  sewed  down  by  the  next  few  stitches.  Pointing  the 
needle  toward  the  chest,  put  it  through  both  edges, 
taking  up  as  little  cloth  as  possible.  The  stitches  should 
be  slanting  on  the  upper  side  and  straight  on  the  under 
side  of  the  cloth.    Work  from  right  to  left.    To  finish 


12    A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


the  seam,  sew  back  over  the  last  few  stitches.  To  join 
the  thread,  leave  half  an  inch  of  the  old  thread  and  half 
an  inch  of  the  new  thread,  place  both  together  on  the 
seam,  and  sew  over  them  as  you  go  on  in  the  work." 

Selvage  edges  are  sewed  together  in  making  pillow 
and  bolster  cases.  When  one  edge  has  become  stretched 
and  is  longer  than  the  other,  baste  with  the  long  edge 
toward  the  sewer,  the  seam  held  around  the  forefinger 
of  the  left  hand. 

Combination  Stitch.  The  combination  stitch  con- 
sists of  three  little  running  stitches  and  a  back  stitch 
over  the  last  running  stitch.  Take  three  running 
stitches  on  the  needle  and  pull  it  through.  Take  up 
the  last  running  stitch  for  the  first  of  the  next  group  of 
three  stitches.  This  is  a  little  stronger  than  the  running 
stitch. 

Couching  Stitch.  Place  a  coarse  thread  on  the  line 
desired  and  sew  it  in  place  with  six  or  seven  stitches  to 
the  inch,  so  that  the  over-seam  may  lie  at  right  angles 
to  the  couching  thread.  Use  either  an  overcasting  or  a 
simple  blanket  stitch. 

Chain  Stitch.  Bring  the  needle  out  from  underneath, 
hold  the  thread  down  with  the  left  thumb,  put  the 
needle  down  again  in  the  hole  through  which  you 
brought  it  out,  take  up  one  fourth  of  an  inch  of  the 
goods,  and  draw  the  needle  through,  over  the  loop  of 
thread.  This  gives  the  first  link  in  the  chain.  Put  the 
needle  down  at  the  end  of  this  first  loop  and  continue 
as  before. 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  13 


Buttonholes.    Cut  buttonholes  one  inch  apart  and 

quarter  of  an  inch  from  edge  of  fold. 

For  practice  cut  buttonholes  half  an  inch  long,  using 
buttonhole  scissors  if  possible. 

Beginning  at  one  corner,  overcast  to  the  left  around 
the  two  edges,  making  about  three  stitches  on  each  side, 
each  stitch  one  sixth  of  an  inch  in  depth. 

Place  the  needle  down  through  the  cloth  where  you 
began  and,  taking  the  double  part  of  the  thread  in  your 


FofJ  of c/oiL 

BUTTOINTHOLE. 

right  hand,  bring  it  over  the  point  of  the  needle  from 
right  to  left;  draw  the  needle  out  and  pull  the  thread 
through,  being  careful  that  the  twist  forms  at  the  edge 
of  the  cloth.  Insert  the  needle  close  to  the  last  stitch, 
bring  it  through  again,  and  loop  the  thread  over  as  be- 
fore. Be  sure  that  the  thread  is  brought  toward  the 
last  stitch  and  then  around  the  needle.  Continue 
until  you  have  finished  one  side;  open  the  buttonhole 


14    A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


as  widely  as  possible  over  your  finger  and  work  around 
the  corner  as  if  it  were  a  straight  edge. 

Make  second  side  like  first.  At  the  end  place  three 
cross-stitches,  each  as  long  as  the  threads  of  the  button- 
hole are  deep,  and  buttonhole  over  these,  bringing  each 
stitch  through  the  cloth. 

If  desired,  the  buttonholes  may  be  made  with  a  bar 
at  either  end,  or  both  ends  may  be  rounded. 

Buttons.  In  sewing  on  flat  buttons,  insert  the  needle 
from  the  right  side  and  back  in  order  to  hide  the  knot 
under  the  button.  Place  the  button  in  position  and 
hold  a  large  pin  or  needle  across  the  button  to  lengthen 
the  stitches.  Put  in  five  or  six  stitches  diagonally 
across  the  button  and  over  the  pin,  keeping  the  stitches 
as  even  as  possible.  Place  the  pin  in  the  opposite 
direction  and  take  five  or  six  stitches  as  before.  Slip 
the  pin  out,  pass  the  needle  through  the  cloth  only, 
and  wind  the  thread  around  the  threads  five  or  six 
times  between  the  button  and  the  cloth.  Pass  the 
needle  through  the  cloth  and  fasten  securely. 

Two-hole  Buttons.  Place  the  buttons  so  that  the 
stitches  will  come  at  right  angles  to  the  edge  of  the 
cloth,  with  the  pin  across  the  button.  Proceed  as 
before. 

Loop  Buttons.  Place  the  button  in  position  with  the 
loop  at  right  angles  to  the  edge  of  the  cloth.  Hold 
the  button  with  the  left  hand  and  top  sew  the  loop 
to  the  cloth.  Pass  the  thread  to  the  under  side  and 
fasten  securely. 


Felled  Seam.  Place  two  edges  of  cloth  right  sides 
together,  one  edge  being  one  fourth  of  an  inch  above 
the  other,  and  baste.  Fold  the  upper  edge  over  the 
lower  edge  one  fourth  of  an  inch  and  baste  one  eighth 


Felled  Seam. 


of  an  inch  from  edge.  Sew  on  upper  side  just  below  the 
basting  with  a  fine  combination  or  back  stitch. 

Take  out  the  basting  thread  and  lay  the  seam  over 
so  that  the  raw  edge  is  covered,  press  carefully  with  the 

r  -  A«gelcs  24,  CaSnis 


16   A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 

finger  exactly  at  the  sewing  of  the  seam,  baste  on  the 
right  side  one  sixteenth  inch  from  seam. 

Hem  the  folded  edge  to  the  cloth  underneath. 

French  Seam.  Baste  the  two  pieces  together  on  the 
right  side;  stitch;  trim  to  one  sixteenth  of  an  inch; 
turn  to  the  wrong  side;  crease  firmly;  baste  just  below 
the  raw  edges;  stitch  again.  The  finished  seam  should 
not  measure  over  one  eighth  of  an  inch.  The  seam  may 
be  used  on  nearly  all  underwear  and  in  simple  wash 
dresses. 

Mitered  Corners.  Two  hems  crossing  each  other  at 
right  angles  may  be  finished  with  either  the  square  or 
the  mitered  corner.  All  hems  more  than  half  an  inch 
in  width  should  be  mitered. 

Fold  and  crease  the  hem  carefully.  Fold  the  outer 
corner  of  this  hem  diagonally  across  to  the  inner  corner 
of  the  hem  and  crease  very  firmly.  Open  the  hem  wide 
and  cut  off  the  corner  of  the  cloth  one  fourth  of  an  inch 
outside  of  this  crease.  Fold  the  hem  as  before,  first 
being  careful  to  turn  in  the  upper  edge  of  the  mitered 
corner  so  that  it  will  come  exactly  to  the  corner  of  the 
hem.  Hem  this  diagonal  portion  so  that  no  stitches 
will  show  on  the  right  side. 

UTENSILS  AND  MATERIALS 

Thimbles.  The  thimble  is  worn  upon  the  second 
finger  of  the  right  hand  to  protect  the  finger  from  the 
eye  of  the  needle.    It  should  be  worn  always  when 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  17 


sewing.  If  possible,  learn  to  push  the  needle  from 
the  side  of  the  thimble  instead  of  from  the  top. 

The  first  thimbles  were  made  from  iron  and  brass, 
but  now  gold,  silver,  aluminum,  celluloid,  and  steel  are 
used.  Most  of  the  aluminum  thimbles  prove  unsatis- 
factory in  wearing  qualities,  and  the  brass  ones  dis- 
color the  finger;  for  general  home  wear  the  silver 
thimble  will  prove  the  best. 

Scissors.  Scissors  should  be  in  every  work-box  or 
bag.  Select  a  good  pair  in  the  beginning,  and  they  will 
last  through  the  entire  course.  Any  reliable  hardware 
store  will  carry  one  or  two  satisfactory  makes.  The 
Boker,  the  Wiss,  and  the  Keen  Kutter  are  all  good,  and 
there  are  many  others.  Be  sure  that  you  have  a  pair 
joined  just  tightly  enough;  if  too  loose,  the  blades  will 
slip  past  each  other;  if  too  tight,  they  will  be  hard  to 
open.  Keep  your  scissors  well  sharpened  at  all  times. 
Shears  with  blades  less  than  six  inches  long  are  usually 
called  scissors.  1 

Needles.  A  needle  is  a  small,  pointed  instrument 
used  for  carrying  thread  through  material.  It  has 
been  used  since  the  earliest  times.  The  present  ones 
are  made  from  steel  wire,  but  in  ancient  times  they  were 
made  from  fish-bones,  ivory,  and  bronze.  The  regular 
sewing  needle  is  made  in  several  different  styles  called 
"  ground-downs, "  "  betweens,"  and  "  sharps." 

The  sharps  are  slender  and  long  with  a  small  eye. 

The  betweens  are  slender  and  short  with  a  small 
eye. 


18   A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


The  ground-downs  are  rather  short  and  blunt  with  a 
larger  eye. 

The  darning  needles  are  long  and  sharp  with  a  long 
eye. 

The  tapestry  needles  are  short  and  blunt  with  a  long 

eye. 

The  crewel  needles  are  of  medium  length  with  a  long 
eye. 

Needles  vary  in  size  from  No.  1  to  No.  12.  No.  1 
is  very  coarse,  No.  12  is  very  fine.  The  numbers  most 
commonly  used  are  7,  8,  9.  A  good  needle  must  be 
made  of  good  steel,  so  that  it  will  not  break  too  easily, 
and  it  must  have  a  smooth  eye  that  the  thread  may  not 
be  cut.  Milward  and  Sons'  and  Roberts's  are  both  satis- 
factory, and  they  can  be  purchased  almost  anywhere. 
These  are  both  English  makes. 

Pins.  Every  girl  should  have  her  own  pins;  select 
those  that  are  of  medium  size  with  sharp  points.  Dull 
points  make  too  large  holes  and  will  injure  fine  cloth. 

The  earliest  pin  used  was  a  thorn  or  twig  from  a  tree; 
then  wire  pins  were  made,  and  now  we  have  them  in 
endless  variety.  Dressmakers'  pins  come  by  the  box 
and  may  be  bought  in  half-pound  quantities;  but  the 
same  style  may  be  obtained  in  papers,  and  one  paper 
should  be  sufficient  for  a  pupil  for  at  least  one  year. 

Thread.  Thread  is  a  twisted  strand  of  silk  or  wool, 
flax  or  cotton.  The  linen  and  cotton  thread  are 
numbered  with  figures;  the  silk  thread  is  designated  by 
letters.    The  larger  the  figure,  the  finer  the  thread. 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  19 


The  numbers  most  commonly  used  are  60  and  70.  All 
the  sizes  from  40  to  90  are  needed  in  the  home,  if  one 
is  to  do  all  kinds  of  work. 

Certain  makes  have  proved  more  satisfactory  than 
others.  Two  very  good  ones  are  Coats's  and  Clark's, 
and,  for  the  single-stitch  machine,  Brooks's  glace. 
Study  a  spool  of  Coats's  thread,  and  you  will  see  on  the 
ends  of  the  spool  these  different  things. 

"  J.  and  P.  Coats  "  —  which  gives  you  the  makers' 
name;  "  best  six  cord  "  —  which  means  made  up  of 
six  strands  of  thread;  "  200  yards  "  —  which  is  the 
number  on  the  spool;  "  60  "  —  which  is  the  size  of  the 
thread,  and,  perhaps,  the  figure  12,  which  seems  to 
mean  the  same  as  60. 

Cloth.  The  process  of  making  thread  is  called 
spinning.  The  process  of  making  cloth  is  called  weav- 
ing. The  machine  upon  which  cloth  is  made  is  called 
a  loom.  This,  at  first,  was  very  simple,  and  the  cloth 
was  all  made  by  hand.  Now  most  of  the  weaving  is 
done  by  machinery.  Cloth  consists  of  two  sets  of 
thread,  one  lengthwise,  one  crosswise  of  the  goods. 
The  lengthwise  threads  are  the  ones  stretched  upon  the 
loom;  these  are  the  stronger  and  are  known  as  the 
warp  threads,  or  the  warp.  The  crosswise  threads  are 
called  the  woof  threads. 

All  good  cloth  is  made  from  silk,  wool,  linen,  or 
cotton. 

Cotton.  When  cotton  was  first  used  or  who  were  the 
people  first  to  cultivate  it,  no  one  is  able  to  tell.  The 


20   A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


earliest  history  speaks  of  an  Indian  plant  "  which  pro- 
duces wool  of  a  finer  and  better  quality  than  that  of 
sheep,"  and  we  know  that  in  India,  Persia,  Egypt,  and 
China,  cotton  garments  have  been  used  for  thousands  of 
years. 

The  plant  seems  to  grow  in  the  warm  regions  of  both 
continents.  When  Columbus  landed  in  South  America, 
he  found  the  shrub  growing  wild  and  the  natives  making 
garments  and  fishing-nets  from  the  fibers.  The  lint 
was  used  for  making  beds,  and  in  Mexico,  in  the  six- 
teenth century,  garments,  tapestries,  and  bedspreads 
were  made  from  the  cotton. 

In  the  United  States,  cotton  was  first  discovered  in 
the  section  which  is  now  the  states  of  Louisiana  and 
Texas.  As  soon  as  the  colonists  arrived  in  Virginia 
they  began  to  plant  the  seeds  of  the  cotton  plant.  For 
a  number  of  years  cotton  was  raised  as  a  garden  plant 
only,  but  by  1775  the  Southern  people  began  to  plant  it 
in  larger  quantities,  and  soon  it  was  beginning  to  take 
the  place  of  that  imported.  The  trustees  of  the  col- 
onies did  not  encourage  the  manufacture  of  the  home- 
grown cotton  for  fear  that  it  would  interfere  with  the 
English  manufacturing,  but  when  the  Revolutionary 
War  cut  off  the  imports  of  European  manufacture,  the 
Americans  began  to  make  their  own  cotton  goods. 

The  cotton,  at  first,  was  difficult  to  clean;  the  clean- 
ing was  all  done  by  hand,  and  the  result  of  a  whole 
day's  work  was  only  one  pound  of  cotton.  Often  the 
whole  family  worked  at  it  in  the  evening.  Later, 


SCR  OF  i'l:  [COMICS 

A  HANDBOOK  OF  ElSlSi&TSftf  SEWfi?<§L  21 

machinery  came  into  use,  and  then  the  raising  of  cotton 
for  commercial  purposes  increased  rapidly. 

At  first  all  the  cotton  was  short  staple,  or  upland  cot- 
ton. After  the  Revolutionary  War,  some  sea-island 
cotton  was  planted  in  the  tide-water  section  of  Georgia. 
This  cotton  has  a  longer,  stronger,  more  silky  fiber  and 
can  be  spun  into  long,  silky  threads.  It  is  used  in 
making  fine  cotton  goods  and  in  lace  and  thread. 

Of  all  the  kinds  of  cloth,  cotton  cloth  is  the  most 
common  and  the  least  expensive.  Bed  linen,  so  called, 
window  draperies,  underwear,  light-weight  dresses, 
and  indeed  many  dresses  of  heavier  weight,  may  be 
made  satisfactorily  from  cotton  materials. 

The  best  materials  for  underwear  are  long  cloth  of 
average  weight,  cambric,  fine  muslin,  and,  for  very  fine 
material,  nainsook  of  good  quality.  Of  all  these, 
bleached  muslin  is  the  least  expensive  and  will  wear 
well,  but  it  is  harder  to  work  upon,  coarser  in  texture, 
and  less  pleasing  to  wear.  English  long  cloth  of 
medium  cost,  or  a  good  grade  of  cambric,  make  the 
most  satisfactory  garments.  Batiste  and  nainsook  are 
too  sheer  to  wear  well  and  are  often  too  sheer  to  look 
well. 

If  nainsook  is  purchased,  get  that  made  from  sea- 
island  cotton,  if  possible,  as  this  is  stronger  and  will 
wear  longer.  The  makes  of  cotton  cloth  vary  in  dif- 
ferent sections  of  the  country,  and  each  person  should 
learn  to  know  those  in  her  own  town  or  city.  I  have 
found  the  Imperial  and  Princess  makes  of  English  long 


22    A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


cloth  to  be  perfectly  satisfactory  for  fine  use;  the 
Glasgow  has  given  good  satisfaction  for  common  wear; 
the  Berkeley  cambric  has  wrorn  very  well,  and  the 
Imperial  sea-island  nainsook  has  been  unusually  good. 
Do  not  buy  a  cheap  nainsook  or  long  cloth,  for  it  will 
be  so  much  money  thrown  away.  Instead,  get  the 
best  grade  of  muslin  you  can  afford.  For  long  cloth 
to  wear  at  all  well,  you  must  pay  at  least  fifteen  to 
seventeen  cents  per  yard  and  for  the  nainsook  not  less 
than  twenty-five  cents. 

Study  your  muslin  until  you  can  recognize  a  good, 
soft  grade.  When  it  is  at  all  stiff,  rub  between  your 
fingers  and  see  if  it  is  full  of  starch;  if  it  is,  the  starch 
will  fall  out.  This  grade  of  muslin  you  should  avoid, 
for  there  is  no  body  to  it. 

Percale  and  domestic  ginghams  will  prove  very 
satisfactory  for  everyday  wash  dresses.  The  percale 
is  really  a  firm,  bleached  muslin  with  a  pattern  stamped 
upon  it.  This  cloth  comes  from  thirty-two  to  thirty- 
six  inches  wide,  costs  from  twelve  and  one  half  to 
fifteen  cents  per  yard  and,  because  of  its  width,  cuts  to 
good  advantage.  The  price  is  higher  than  calico,  but 
the  firmer  weave  and  greater  width  make  it  less  expen- 
sive for  many  purposes.  Avoid  the  dark  blue,  the  so- 
called  indigo,  with  the  white  spots,  if  you  wish  good 
wearing  material.  The  white  spots  or  stripes  are  made, 
usually,  by  first  dyeing  the  cloth  blue  and  then  bleach- 
ing the  design.  By  this  method  the  strength  of  the 
cloth  is  eaten  up  by  the  bleaching  process. 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  23 


Gingham  is  a  material  with  the  pattern  woven  into 
the  cloth.  The  domestic  grades,  those  made  in  the 
United  States,  come  in  widths  varying  from  twenty- 
seven  to  thirty-two  inches.  The  grade  that  corre- 
sponds to  percale  in  price  is  usually  twenty-seven  inches 
wide.  All  ginghams  will  cut  to  better  advantage  if 
the  material  is  shrunk  before  making  into  garments. 
Wash  in  clear,  warm  water  and  dry. 

Colored  wash  goods  should  be  tested  for  fast 
colors  before  buying.  Take  a  sample  home,  wash 
with  soap  and  warm  water,  and  hang  in  the  sun  to 
dry. 

Wool.  W7ool  comes  from  the  sheep.  When  the 
fleece  is  removed  by  a  skillful  person,  it  holds  together 
and  looks  like  the  skin  of  an  animal.  It  is  sent  to  the 
factory  thus  and  there  sorted  into  the  different  grades 
of  wool.  The  best  grade  of  wool  comes  from  the 
shoulders  and  sides  of  the  sheep.  The  natural  wool 
contains  a  greasy  matter  which  helps  to  preserve  it. 
This  is  washed  out  after  the  fleece  is  sorted.  After 
this  thorough  washing,  the  wool  is  made  into  woolens 
and  worsteds. 

Woolens  are  made  usually  from  short  staple  wool, 
and  the  fibers  are  frequently  crossed  and  mixed.  The 
worsteds  are  made  from  the  long  staple  wool,  and  the 
fibers  usually  lie  parallel.  The  worsteds  are  dressier 
fabrics,  and  the  patterns  seem  clearly  woven  with 
threads  easily  seen;  serge  is  an  example  of  this  style. 
Woolens  have  threads  less  easily  distinguished,  and  the 


24   A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


result  is  softer  and  more  indistinct;  flannel,  tweed,  and 
eiderdown  are  woolens. 

The  simplest  test  for  wool  is  that  of  burning.  The 
odor  of  the  animal  fiber  is  like  that  of  hair,  and  the  fibers 
burn  much  more  slowly  than  do  the  cotton  ones. 
More  ash  is  always  formed  from  the  wool  than  from  the 
cotton. 

Woolen  material  is  used  for  baby's  underwear  and 
where  much  warmth  is  desired.  It  is  expensive  and 
must  remain  so,  because  of  the  cost  of  raising  the  sheep. 

A  little  of  the  best  quality  of  wool  is  raised  in  the 
United  States,  but  the  greater  part  of  it  has  to  be  im- 
ported.   Of  this  Australia  sends  us  the  larger  portion. 

Linen.  Linen  is  made  from  the  fibers  of  the  flax 
plant.  It  has  been  used  for  thousands  of  years,  and 
nothing  has  yet  been  found  that  will  give  the  same 
satisfaction  for  use  where  high  luster  and  good  wearing 
qualities  are  desired. 

Linen  is  used  largely  for  table  linen,  handkerchiefs, 
dress  material,  and  toweling.  It  absorbs  moisture  more 
readily  and  keeps  white  under  constant  washing  more 
easily  than  cotton,  hence  should  be  used  for  hand  and 
dish  towels.  In  the  rich  damask  weaves  used  in  table 
linen,  its  high  luster  makes  it  not  only  very  beautiful, 
but  also  causes  it  to  shed  the  soil  much  more  readily. 
Its  tendency  to  wrinkle  makes  it  rather  unsatisfactory 
for  common  dresses,  but  it  remains  popular  because 
of  its  coolness  and  its  fine  wearing  qualities. 

Linen  is  always  expensive  and  must  remain  so,  be- 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  25 


cause  of  the  cost  of  raising  it  and  preparing  it  for  weav- 
ing. A  small  amount  of  flax  is  raised  in  the  United 
States,  but  the  greater  part  of  it  comes  from  abroad. 

Mercerized  cotton  is  often  mixed  with  the  linen,  and 
the  result  is  sold  for  pure  linen.  Experts  in  linen  tell 
me  that  the  adulteration  is  so  skillfully  done  that  the 
ordinary  person  cannot  detect  it.  We  must  depend 
very  largely  upon  the  honesty  of  our  dealers;  however, 
a  few  tests  may  be  used  with  fair  success : 

Linen  threads  break  unevenly  with  a  pointed  end. 

Rub  a  linen  fabric  between  your  fingers,  and  the 
surface  will  feel  much  smoother  than  a  cotton  surface. 

Linen  fibers  lie  parallel  when  untwisted;  cotton 
show  many  directions. 

Burn  linen  threads,  and  they  remain  compact  and 
even;  cotton  will  spread  apart. 

Linen  washed,  dried,  immersed  in  concentrated  sul- 
phuric acid  for  two  minutes,  then  washed  again  and 
dried  between  filter  paper,  will  remain  practically  the 
same.    Cotton  will  be  dissolved. 

Butcher's  linen  is  a  very  coarse,  heavy  weave  used 
for  aprons  and  dress  skirts.  Linen  cambric  is  much 
used  for  handkerchiefs.  Damask  is  used  for  fine 
towels,  tablecloths,  and  napkins. 


PART  II 
OUTLINE  OF  WORK 

FOURTH  GRADE 

Needle  Case 

Materials.  German  canvas  six  inches  square; 
D.  M.  C.  embroidery  cotton  No.  3  and  No.  5  in  color; 
crewel  needle  No.  3;  white  daisy  cloth;  Clark's 
crochet  cotton  in  white  or  a  harmonious  color. 

Directions.  Blanket  stitch  around  the  edge  of  the 
canvas  with  the  No.  3  D.  M.  C.  embroidery  cotton. 
Inside  the  blanket  stitch  place  a  row  of  uneven  basting 
stitches;  inside  this  a  row  of  even  basting  stitches; 
inside  these  stitches  run  a  row  of  running  stitches. 
Cut  the  daisy  cloth  one  fourth  of  an  inch  smaller  than 
the  canvas ;  blanket  stitch  around  the  edge  of  this  with 
the  white  crochet  cotton.  Place  on  the  inner  side  of 
the  canvas  and  tie  securely  through  the  center  with 
the  D.  M.  C. 

Cross-stitch  may  be  used  for  decoration  in  place  of 
the  basting  and  running. 

27 


28   A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


Sewing  Bag 

Materials.  Unbleached  muslin  twenty  inches  by 
eight  inches ;  Coats's  crochet  cotton  (color  dark  red) ; 
No.  7  and  No.  4  needle ;  No.  60  white  thread. 

Directions.  Fold  one  half  a  hem  on  long  sides  of 
cloth  and  baste  near  edge  with  uneven  basting,  using 
the  crochet  cotton :  keep  the.,  half-inch  part  of  the 
stitch  next  to  you ;  turn  the  goods  and  baste  on  the 
other  side,  keeping  the  half-inch  stitch  next  to  you 
and  taking  up  the  eighth  of  an  inch  space  directly 
above  the  eighth  of  an  inch  stitch.  Fold  a  two-inch 
hem  at  each  end  of  the  cloth ;  baste  in  the  same  manner 
as  before ;  half  an  inch  above  crease  the  cloth  carefully 
and  baste  again  as  before.  Bring  the  sides  evenly 
together.  Baste  with  white  thread,  then  overcast 
with  the  red  cotton.  When  the  seam  is  finished,  re- 
verse and  overcast  in  the  other  direction,  thus  giving 
a  double  overcasting  stitch.  Run  two  tapes  or  a 
twisted  cord,  made  from  the  crochet  cotton,  through 
the  casing  of  the  hem ;  let  each  cord  be  eighteen  inches 
to  twenty  inches  in  length. 

Cord  made  from  the  Cotton.  Take  four  times 
as  much  cotton  as  the  final  length  of  the  cord  will 
require;  double  and  twist  firmly  together;  bring  the 
ends  together  again  and,  holding  them  in  one  hand,  let 
them  twist  firmly  together;  tie.  Run  into  the  bag  with 
a  bodkin  or  tape  needle  so  called.  Two  girls  can  do 
this  together  very  easily. 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  29 


Pinwheel 

Materials.  Cardboard;  cretonne  or  brown  linen; 
colored  crochet  cotton;  No.  7  sewing  needle;  No.  60 
or  70  white  thread. 

Directions.  Cut  two  circles  of  cardboard  each  two 
and  a  half  inches  in  diameter.  Cut  two  circles  of  the 
cloth  each  half  an  inch  larger  than  the  cardboard. 
Using  the  white  thread  and  the  sewing  needle,  gather 
the  cloth  one  fourth  of  an  inch  from  the  edge;  place 
each  piece  of  cardboard  upon  each  piece  of  cloth  and 
draw  the  thread  up  as  firmly  as  possible;  with  long 
stitches  from  side  to  side  fasten  the  cloth  firmly  in 
place.  Place  the  two  pieces  together,  raw  edges  inside, 
and  sew  with  top-sewing  stitches  all  around  the  edge. 
If  desired,  the  edge  may  be  finished  with  double  over- 
casting as  in  the  sewing  bag.  Baby  ribbon  may  be 
added  as  a  further  decoration. 

Doll's  Comfortable 

Materials.  Two  pieces  of  fine  cheesecloth  eight 
inches  by  ten  inches;  one  piece  of  sheet  wadding  nine 
by  seven;  white  or  colored  crochet  cotton;  white 
thread  No.  60  or  70;  sewing  needle  No.  7;  crewel 
needle  No.  5 ;  white  darning  cotton  or  Germantown. 

Directions.  Arrange  half  the  wadding  (which  will 
easily  split)  upon  each  piece  of  the  cheesecloth,  leaving 
the  edge  of  the  cloth  even  upon  each  side.  Baste  in 
position,  using  the  uneven  basting  stitch.    Turn  the 


30    A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


cheesecloth  over  to  the  edge  of  the  wadding  and  baste 
down;  place  the  two  raw  edges  (that  is,  the  sides  having 
raw  edges)  together  evenly,  the  cotton  inside,  and  pin 
in  place;  baste  close  to  the  edge  with  even  basting 
stitches.  Thread  the  crewel  needle  with  the  crochet 
cotton  and  blanket  stitch  around  the  entire  edge,  as  in 
the  needle  case.  One  inch  from  the  side  and  one  and 
one  half  inches  from  the  end  place  the  needle  through  the 
comfortable,  taking  up  an  eighth  of  an  inch  stitch; 
cut  off  the  thread,  leaving  the  ends  about  one  and  one 
half  inches  long;  tie  once.  Fold  darning  cotton  or 
Germantown  four  times;  cut  into  inch  lengths;  place 
one  length  (fourfold)  across  the  knot  of  the  crochet 
cotton;  which  then  tie  securely  with  a  double  knot; 
trim  off  the  ends  evenly,  leaving  them  about  three 
eighths  of  an  inch  long.  Repeat  every  one  and  a  half 
inches.  There  should  be  four  of  these  tackings,  as 
they  are  called,  in  a  row  and  five  rows. 


VBS 


FIFTH  GRADE 


Doll's  Sunbonnet 


Materials.  Gingham.  Size  twelve  inches  wide  by 
seven  inches  long;  white  thread  No.  70;  No.  8  needle; 
twenty  inches  white  tape,  fourth  of  an  inch  wide. 

Directions.  Fold  the  goods  lengthwise,  edges  to- 
gether; from  the  folded  edges  measure  across  three  and 


Doll's  Sunbonnet  showing  Squares  cut  out  and  One 
Side  Overcast. 


one  half  inches;  cut  out  a  three  and  one  half  inch 
square;  overcast  the  cut  edges;  turn  an  eighth  of  an 
inch  seam  and  top  sew  these  two  edges  together  on  each 
31 


12  -inches 


3' 


3|  inches 


3|inches 


32    A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


side.  Turn  a  fourth-inch  hem  around  the  entire  bon- 
net; hem  fine;  place  two  small  plaits  at  the  neck  line 
in  the  back  and  fasten  with  a  tiny  bow  of  baby  ribbon 
or  of  white  tape.  Sew  strings  made  of  the  tape  about 
one  inch  back  from  the  front  and  one  inch  up  from  the 
bottom. 

If  a  prettier  bonnet  is  desired,  sew  a  piece  of  narrow, 
fine  lace  which  has  beading,  along  the  front  edge  of  the 
bonnet  and  run  baby  ribbon  through  this.  Then  make 
the  strings  and  the  bow  of  the  same  ribbon.  A  bonnet 
large  enough  to  fit  the  home  doll  may  be  made  if 
desired. 

Laundry  Bag 

Materials.  Gingham,  chambray,  or  lawn,  the 
width  of  the  material,  if  twenty-seven  inches,  or  cut 
to  that  width,  and  twenty-seven  inches  long;  one 
embroidery  hoop,  seven  or  eight  inches  in  diameter; 
one  yard  of  ribbon  one  inch  wide  to  match  the  material; 
one  skein  D.  M.  C.  No.  3;  No.  70  thread;  No.  8 
needle. 

Directions.  Cut  the  goods  to  a  thread;  baste  a 
three-quarter-inch  hem  at  each  end  and  hem.  Find 
the  middle  of  one  of  the  selvage  sides;  bring  the  bottom 
of  the  hem  to  this  point  and  baste  the  edges  together 
(seam  on  the  wrong  side).  Bring  the  bottom  of  the 
other  hem  to  this  middle  point  and  baste  the  other 
edges  together.  (This  allows  the  hems  to  remain  out 
so  that  the  hoop  may  be  run  through.) 

Baste  the  other  side  in  the  same  way.   Stitch  by  hand. 


JTffflF  ^munu 

A  HANDBOOK  OF  El3MW^y  SEWING  33 

school. 

Turn  bag  on  right  side  and  press  out  the  corners.  Find 
the  place  where  the  hoop  is  joined  together:  notch  on 
both  sides  of  this  place;  place  the  hoop  in  hot  water, 
and  it  will  come  apart;  then  run  the  hoop  through 
the  hems  and  tie  it  together  again  with  a  thread  or 
string.  Make  a  bow  at  each  end  of  the  ribbon.  Sew 
these  two  bows  at  the  ends  of  the  bag;  arrange  the 
gathers  evenly  and  sew  a  tassel  to  each  corner  of  the 
bag. 

To  make  the  Tassels.  Cut  the  skein  of  D.  M.  C; 
remove  two  long  threads;  cut  the  remainder  into 
fourths;  fold  the  fourths  evenly;  thread  one  long 
strand  into  a  crewel  needle  and  tie  the  middle  of  one 
folded  fourth  with  it:  fold  again  evenly;  bring  the 
needle  up  from  below  through  the  knot  and  put  back 
close  to  where  it  came  out,  leaving  a  loop  half  an  inch 
long.  Bring  the  needle  out  three  eighths  of  an  inch 
from  the  loop  and  wind  the  thread  firmly  around  all 
the  threads  six  times;  slip  the  needle  under  and  up 
through  the  middle  of  the  tassel  and  draw  firmly;  cut. 

Holder 

Materials.  Gingham  or  calico  seven  inches  square. 
Two  squares.  No.  8  needle.  No.  70  white  thread, 
piece  of  narrow  tape  six  inches  long;  white  darning 
cotton. 

Directions.  Ask  the  children  to  bring  some  old, 
soft  cloth  from  home  and  use  this  for  filling.  Take 
three  thicknesses,  if  thin,  and  cut  to  a  six-inch  square. 


34    A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


Place  half  on  each  square  of  the  gingham  or  calico  and 
baste  the  edges  down  to  the  filling,  turning  the  opposite 
sides  first. 

In  one  corner  place  the  tape  and  baste  to  position. 

Place  the  two  pieces  of  gingham  or  calico  together ; 
baste  firmly  in  place. 

Top  sew  fine,  hemming  down  the  corner  where  the 
tape  comes. 

Find  the  center  and  tie  the  darning  cotton,  using 
four  strands.  Repeat  halfway  between  the  center  and 
each  corner. 

Doily 

Materials.  Natural  colored  linen  six  inches  square; 
Coats's  crochet  cotton  in  a  soft  brown  shade;  No.  5 
crewel  needle. 

Directions.  With  a  pencil  mark  a  circle  on  the  linen 
three  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter;  one  eighth  of  an 
inch  inside  mark  a  second  circle  lightly  in  pencil. 
Outline  the  two  circles  in  running  stitch.  Scallop  stitch 
over  these  with  the  brown  cotton,  being  careful  that  the 
needle  goes  in  and  comes  out  exactly  on  the  line. 
Fringe  to  this  scalloped  edge  and  trim  the  fringe  to  one 
inch. 

Pincushion  Top 

Materials.  Scrim  eight  inches  by  six  and  one 
half;  crochet  cotton  or  D.  M.  C.  No.  8;  colors,  pale 
blue  and  yellow;  crewel  needles  No.  5;  sewing  needles 
No.  8, 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  35 


Directions.  Turn  a  half-inch  hem  on  all  four  sides 
of  the  scrim.  (Be  sure  to  turn  the  opposite  sides  first.) 
Baste  with  even  basting  stitches.  On  the  right  side 
outline  stitch  the  hem,  being  careful  to  keep  on  the  edge 
of  the  hem.  Find  the  middle  of  the  scrim,  and  mark 
with  a  pencil.  Measure  out,  making  a  rectangle  half 
an  inch  wide  by  one  inch  long,  the  longer  side  of  the 
rectangle  parallel  with  the  longer  side  of  the  scrim. 
Half  an  inch  out  from  the  edge  of  the  shorter  side  of  the 
rectangle  bring  the  crewel  needle  threaded  with  the 
cotton  up  from  the  wrong  side,  pass  over  one  thread 
and  take  a  half-inch  stitch  on  the  wrong  side  of  the 
scrim,  bring  the  needle  through  the  scrim  and  take  an 
inch  stitch  on  the  right  side,  pass  the  needle  under 
half  an  inch  on  the  wrong  side,  and  bring  again  to  the 
right;  pass  over  one  thread  and  go  back  in  the  same 
manner.  Continue  in  this  way  until  the  rectangle  is 
covered  with  these  long  threads.  Threading  the 
needle  with  the  other  color  of  embroider}7  or  crochet 
cotton,  bring  it  up  at  right  angles  with  the  long  threads 
and  half  an  inch  from  the  edge  of  them  and  take  one 
tiny  stitch ;  pass  over  half  an  inch  on  the  wrong  side, 
bring  the  needle  through  to  the  right,  and  weave  in  and 
out,  over  and  under  the  long  threads;  then  pass  the 
needle  into  the  scrim,  bring  it  out  on  the  wrong  side, 
take  a  half-inch  stitch,  pass  over  two  threads,  and  go 
back  in  the  same  manner;  continue  until  the  entire 
space  has  been  woven  over.  Be  careful  in  weaving 
the  second  time  to  pass  over  the  threads  that  you  passed 


36   A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


under  the  first  time.  Fasten  with  two  small  stitches 
on  the  wrong  side.  Over  the  tiny  stitches  that  you 
made  half  an  inch  beyond  the  weaving,  make  three 
rows  of  outline  stitch,  using  the  two  colors  of  em- 
broidery cotton. 

Make  a  cushion  to  fit  this  cover,  or  bring  a  cushion 
from  home  and  make  the  cover  to  fit  it. 


Stocking  Darning 

Bring  stockings  from  home.  Place  a  darning-ball  or 
a  piece  of  firm  cardboard  under  the  hole  to  be  darned. 
Match  the  darning  cotton  to  the  color  of  the  stocking. 

If  the  stocking  is  fine,  use 
one  strand  of  the  cotton;  if 
coarse,  use  two  strands.  On 
a  line  with  the  center  of  the 
hole,  and  half  an  inch  from 
its  edge,  place  the  needle  in 
the  cloth  and  run  with  very 
fine  stitches  to  the  edge  of 
the  hole.  Pass  the  needle 
across  the  hole,  under  the  raw 
edge  on  the  opposite  side,  and 
make  one  fourth  of  an  inch  of  fine  running  stitches. 
Start  back  close  to  this  row  and  repeat  the  same 
thing,  being  careful  that  you  pass  over  the  raw  edge 
that  you  passed  under  before.  Continue  until  half  the 
hole  is  covered  and  then  run  the  fine  stitches  one 
fourth  of  an  inch  beyond  into  the  stocking.  This 


Stocking  Darning. 


makes  the  darn  firmer  and  less  likely  to  pull  out.  Do 
the  other  half  in  the  same  manner.  When  the  warp 
threads  are  all  in,  begin  in  the  middle  with  the  woof 
threads.  Use  fine  running  stitches  to  the  edge  of  the 
hole  as  before.  Then  weave  under  and  over  as  in  the 
cushion-top,  keeping  the  stitches  near  enough  to  make 
a  firm,  close  weave.  Fasten  as  with  the  warp  threads 
by  running  into  the  stocking  one  fourth  of  an  inch. 


Use  firm  brown  paper  if  possible;  if  nothing  else  is 
available,  buy  some  from  the  grocer. 

Begin  in  the  upper,  right-hand  corner. 

Down  means  toward  the  bottom  of  the  paper. 

Out  means  toward  the  left-hand  side  of  the  paper. 

Up  means  from  the  bottom  toward  the  top  of  the  paper. 

Make  all  measurements  very  carefully. 

Yardsticks  will  be  of  great  assistance  if  they  can  be 
obtained.  Be  very  careful  when  making  the  free- 
hand curves. 


Draft.  Measure  down  on  straight  edge  of  paper  17 
inches  and  mark  1  at  top  and  2  at  bottom. 


Directions  for  Drafting 


Sewing  Apron 


Down  from  1  measure  1  inch  and  mark 
Out      "    "      "      6  inches  " 


3 
4 

5 


38   A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 

Connect  4  and  8  with  a  straight  line. 
Down  from  4  on  line  4-8  mea  sure  8J  inches  and  mark  9 
Up  from  8  on  line  4-8        "      6      "      "      "  10 
Connect  5  and  1,  6  and  1,  7  and  1,  8  and  1,  10  and 
1,  by  straight  lines.    Connect  3  and  4  by  a  down  curve. 


Draft  of  Sewing  Apron. 

Measure  up  on  line  6-1   J  inch    and  mark   .    .  11 
"  "    "     7-1  2J  inches  "      "      .    .  12 
"  "    "    8-1  5     "      "      "      .    .  13 
"  "    "  10-1   1  inch      "      "      .    .  14 
Draw  a  curved  line  from  9  through  14,  13,  12,  11,  to  5. 
Cut  on  the  curved  line  3-4,  then  down  through  4,  9,  14, 
13,  12,  11,  5  to  2. 
If  a  larger  apron  is  desired,  make  the  following 
changes  when  drafting  the  pattern. 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  39 


Lengthen  the  line  1-2  4  inches  and  mark  .    .    .  A 

"    "  4-8  4J     "      "      "  .    .    .  B 
Connect  A  and  B  with  a  straight  line. 
Lengthen  lines  1-5,  1-6,  and  1-7  to  the  line  A-B. 
Mark  these  lines  ha,  6a,  and  7a. 

Measure  up  from  ha  J  inch    and  mark  ...  C 

"     "    Qa  H  inches  "      "  .    .    .  D 

u      u     7a4j       <c         «        «  E 

((       u     ((    g  2i     <<      <<      <<  p 

Draw  a  downward  curve  from  10  through  F,  E,  D,  C, 
to  A. 


When  drafting  for  a  stout  girl,  measure  out  five 
inches  instead  of  six  at  the  top  of  the  draft  and  carry 
the  line  1-2  down  one  inch  lower,  as  shown  in  the  dotted 
lines  in  the  illustration.    Cut  on  the  dotted  lines. 

To  Cut  the  Apron.  Fold  the  goods  lengthwise, 
making  the  fold  just  wide  enough  to  fit  the  widest  part 
of  the  pattern.  Be  sure  that  the  warp  threads  are 
perfectly  straight.  Pin  the  pattern  with  the  straight 
edge  exactly  on  the  fold  and  the  top  to  the  edge  of 
the  goods.  Pin  firmly  along  the  edges.  Cut  exactly 
to  the  pattern.  Leave  the  fold  uncut.  Remove  the 
pattern,  open  the  cloth,  and  the  apron  is  ready  to 
be  made. 

Materials.  Three  fourths  of  a  yard  of  lawn, 
dimity,  or  batiste.  One  and  three  fourths  or  two  yards 
of  narrow  lace.  (The  imitation  Armenian  is  the  most 
satisfactory.)     One    skein    of    embroidery  cotton, 


40   A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


O.  N.  T.  or  D.  M.  C,  No.  25,  one  strand.  Number  70 
white  thread.    Sewing  needles,  about  Nos.  5  and  8. 

Directions.  Turn  a  very  narrow  hem,  three  six- 
teenths of  an  inch,  all  around  the  apron.  Baste  with 
even  basting  stitches.  With  the  embroidery  cotton, 
featherstitch  over  this  hem.  (Be  sure  that  this  feather- 
stitching  is  very  fine,  for  it  must  take  the  place  of  the 
usual  hemming.)  Top  sew  the  lace  around  the  finished 
edge,  holding  the  lace  next  to  you  and  taking  very  fine, 
close  stitches.  Cut  a  piece  of  cloth  lengthwise,  making 
it  two  inches  wide  and  two  inches  longer  than  the  waist 
measure  taken  loosely.  Find  the  middle  of  the  apron 
at  the  top  and  mark  with  a  pin;  find  the  middle  of  the 
band ;  pin  the  middle  of  the  apron  to  the  middle  of  the 
band,  keeping  the  band  on  the  right  side  of  the  apron. 
Baste  with  even  basting  stitches.  Stitch.  Turn  the 
band  over,  crease  a  fourth  of  an  inch  fold  on  the  edge, 
and  baste  this  down  firmly  on  the  wrong  side  just  over 
the  stitching,  and  hem.  Top  sew  the  edges  that 
extend  beyond  the  apron.  A  button  and  buttonhole 
may  be  used  to  finish  it,  if  the  pupils  are  able  to  make 
them  well. 


SIXTH  GRADE 


Book  Marker 

Materials.  Linen-colored  chanibray  or  gingham; 
red  or  brown  ribbon;  brown  twist,  red  D.  M.  C.  em- 
broidery or  red  tambo  cotton;  No.  7  needle;  No.  5 
crewel  needle;  linen-colored  thread. 

Directions.  Cut  linen  about  three  inches  by  six 
inches.  Fold  in  one  eighth  of  an  inch  on  all  sides. 
Fold  the  edges  together  lengthwise  and  baste  with 
even  basting  stitches.  Top  sew  fine,  using  linen- 
colored  thread.  One  inch  from  the  top  cut  a  button- 
hole across  the  marker,  in  the  center,  three  fourths  of  an 
inch  long.  Make  a  buttonhole,  following  the  directions 
given,  using  either  the  twist  or  the  cotton.  Half  an 
inch  below  cut  another  buttonhole  parallel,  and  work 
as  before.  One  inch  from  the  bottom  cut  another  but- 
tonhole and  work  in  the  same  way.  Half  an  inch  above, 
cut  and  make  one  more.  Through  these  buttonholes 
run  twelve  inches  of  half-inch  ribbon  the  same  color 
that  the  buttonholes  are  worked  in. 

41 


42    A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


Cooking  Apron.    Medium  Size 

Draft.    Find  waist  measure  and  skirt  length. 
Mark  upper,  right-hand  corner  of  paper  ....  1 
Out  from  1  measure  one  third  of  waist  measure  and 

mark  2 

Down  from  1  measure  2  inches  and  mark  ...  3 
Connect  2  and  3  with  a  down  curved  line. 


Cooking  Afron. 


Down  from  3  measure  skirt  length  and  mark    .    .  4 

Out       "    4      "      14  inches      "      "      .    .  5 

"   on  line  4-5  measure  4  inches     "      "      .    .  6 

"   from  6  measure  3  inches  and  mark   ....  7 

"        "7         "         2       "         "        "  Q 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  43 


Out  from  8  measure  3  inches  and  mark  ....  9 

Connect  2  and  5  by  a  straight  line. 

Up  from  5  on  line  2-5  measure  4  inches  and  mark  10 

Find  one  third  of  line  2-5,  and  add  5  inches  to  this 
length.  Measure  down  this  length  from  2  on 
line  2-5  and  mark  11 

Connect  1  and  7  by  a  straight  line.  Do  the  same 
with  1  and  8,  1  and  9,  1  and  5,  1  and  10. 

Up  from  7  on  line  1-7  measure  J  inch    and  mark  12 


8  " 

"  1-8 

"      2  inches  "  " 

9  " 

"  1-9 

t(         g3.       ((          a  i( 

5 

"  1-5 

(C          4  3        <(          <c  (( 

10  " 

"  1-10 

IC             f>              (C              it  {{ 

Draw  a  free-hand  curve  from  11  through  16,  15, 
14,  13,  12,  to  6. 

Draft  for  the  Bib.    Mark  upper,  right-hand 


corner    1 

Down  from  1  measure  21 J  inches  and  mark  ...  2 

Out     "    1      "       9    "       *     "     .    .   .  3 

"        "    2      "       9    "       "      "...  4 

Up  from  2  on  line  1-2  measure  3  inches  and  mark  5 

"     "    "  "    "    "       "       6      "      "      "  6 

"     "    "  "    "    "       "       9      "      <f     "  7 

"     "    "  "    "    "       "      10|     "      "      "  8 

"     "    "  "    "    "       "      12      "      "      "  9 

"     "    "  "    "    "       "      14      "      <f      "  10 

"     "    "  <c    "    "       "      16      "      "      "  11 

il         ((       (C    11       ((        ((               ((            -I  O            ((            ((           a  -jo 


44   A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


Up  from  2  on  line  8-9  measure  20  inches  and  mark  13 

14 
15 
16 
17 
18 
19 
20 
21 
22 
23 
24 
25 
26 
27 
28 

Draw  a  curving  line  from  28  through  26,  24,  22, 
21,  19,  to  8. 

Draw  a  second  curving  line  from  28  through  27, 
25,  23,  20,  18,  17,  16,  15,  14.  Cut  on  the  line 
2-14,  and  then  on  the  curving  lines,,  8-28, 
14-28. 

If  a  longer  bib  is  needed,  lengthen  at  the  bottom 
from  one  to  two  inches. 

Directions  for  Cutting  the  Aprons.  Use  per- 
cale that  is  thirty-six  inches  wide  and  has  a  small 
figure  on  a  white  ground.  (The  directions  show  you 
how  to  cut  two  aprons  at  the  same  time.)    Fold  the 


Out  from  2  measure  4J 

"     "  5 

'  5i 

"     "  6 

'  7 

"     "     7  ' 
"     "     8  ' 

'  8 

'  si 

"     "     9  ' 

<  21 

"     "     9  ' 

<  8| 

f  4J 

"    "  11 

'  4} 

"   "  11  ' 

4  8| 

"      "  12 

(  3J 

(  8 

„       u  13 

3 

"     "    13  4 

'  7 

"     "  1 

'  41 

^2 

A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  45 


material  lengthwise.  Measure  off  sufficient  for  the 
bibs.  Fold  the  remainder  crosswise  (retaining  the 
lengthwise  fold).  Cut  four  pieces  for  the  two  bands, 
two  inches  wide  and  two  inches  longer  than  the  waist 
measure  taken  loosely,  lengthwise  of  the  cloth  along  the 
selvage  edge.  Pin  the  apron  pattern  upon  the  folded 
goods,  straight  edge  upon  fold  of  goods.  Cut  upon  the 
curving  portion  as  in  the  sewing  apron.  Pin  the  pattern 
for  the  bib  on  the  remaining  portion,  straight  edge  on 
fold  and  cut.  It  will  take  two  yards  of  this  wide  ma- 
terial to  make  the  small  apron.  If  a  pupil  is  larger,  two 
and  three  fourths  yards  will  be  required. 

Directions  for  Making  the  Apron.  Bind  the 
apron  with  bias  binding,  or  finish  with  a  fancy  tape. 
Place  one  band  as  in  the  sewing  apron,  but  place  the 
other  on  the  wrong  side  in  a  similar  manner;  baste 
with  even  basting  and  stitch.  The  top  of  this  will 
be  open  and  unfinished.  Find  the  middle  of  the 
band  on  the  right  side;  pin  the  middle  of  the  bib 
at  the  bottom  to  the  middle  of  the  band,  right  sides 
together;  baste  together  and  stitch.  Turn  in  the 
remaining  raw  edges  one  fourth  of  an  inch,  baste  to- 
gether and  stitch.  Finish  the  band  with  a  button  and 
buttonhole  or  with  loops  and  buttons.  Fasten  the 
bib  in  the  same  way.  If  a  buttonhole  is  desired, 
strengthen  the  end  of  the  bib  with  an  extra  thickness 
of  cloth  carried  back  one  and  a  half  inches  from  the 
end.  See  that  the  threads  of  the  cloth  match  in 
doing  this, 


46   A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


Cross-stitch  Bag 

Materials.  Gingham,  linen,  pongee,  scrim,  or 
crepe;  one  third  yard  for  lining,  one  fourth  yard  for 
top;  D.  M.  C.  No.  5,  or  D.  M.  C.  six  strand,  No.  25; 


:;hin  ;;. .. 


Win. 


7%m 


Cross  Stitch  Design 


Diagram  of  Cross-stitch  Bag. 


three  skeins  of  harmonizing  color;  crewel  needles  No.  4 
or  No.  5;  No.  8  needle;  No.  70  thread. 

Directions.  If  the  bag  is  to  be  made  of  plain  ging- 
ham and  the  design  is  to  be  worked  on  gingham  having 
an  eighth-inch  check,  measure  and  cut  a  piece  twenty 
inches  crosswise  of  the  plain  gingham  and  seven  and  one 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  47 


half  inches  on  the  selvage.  Make  the  checked  gingham 
the  width  the  design  requires  and  twenty  inches  long. 
Baste  the  checked  gingham  upon  the  plain  at  such  a 
distance  from  top  as  to  have  the  pattern  come  about 
two  inches  from  lower  edges.  Work  out  a  design  pre- 
viously made  in  the  drawing  department.  Cut  the 
lining  exactly  the  same  width  and  length  as  the  outside; 
from  the  remainder  cut  a  piece  three  inches  long  by 
five  and  a  half  inches  wide;  turn  in  the  edges  a  fourth 
of  an  inch ;  place  this  evenly  on  one  side  of  the  lining 
and  fasten  with  firm  couching  stitches,  using  the  D. 
M.  C;  use  three  strands  to  couch  over.  For  position 
see  diagram  given. 

Divide  this  piece  into  two  pockets  with  the  couching. 
Join  the  lining  and  the  outside  with  the  machine 
stitching,  raw  edges  together,  first  the  top  and  then 
the  sides.  Cut  from  tag  board  or  cardboard  two  circles 
three  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter.  (If  cardboard  is 
used,  four  thicknesses  will  be  required.)  Cover  each 
piece  of  cardboard  with  the  cloth,  cutting  the  covering 
one  inch  larger  than  the  board.  Place  these  circular 
pieces  together,  raw  edges  inside,  and  baste.  Gather 
the  bottom  of  the  bag  and  top  sew  on  to  the  circular 
pieces  on  the  inside  of  the  bag.  Make  a  half-inch 
casing  one  inch  from  the  top  of  the  bag  by  running  two 
rows  of  fine  combination  stitch  half  an  inch  apart. 
Make  two  cords  from  the  D.  M.  C.  and  run  them  into 
the  casing.  If  D.  M.  C.  No.  25  is  used,  take  three 
strands  for  cross-stitching,  and  six  strands  for  cord. 


48   A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


Work  Apron 

Materials.  Chambray,  gingham,  or  dark  calico. 
Bias  binding  No.  4  or  No.  5  A  simple  Butterick  or 
Ladies  Home  Journal  pattern  having  no  sleeves,  a 
round  neck,  and  shoulder  and  under-arm  seams  only. 

Directions.  Select  the  pattern  and  then  buy  the 
amount  of  goods  required.  Cut  by  pattern,  allowing 
a  two-inch  seam.  Make  a  French  seam  at  all  seams. 
Finish  neck  and  armhole  with  the  bias  binding  or  facing. 
Make  a  one-inch  hem  up  the  back  and  a  two-inch  hem 
at  the  bottom.  If  a  more  decorative  apron  is  desired, 
a  simple  embroidery  stitch  may  be  used  on  the  hems. 
Seed  stitch,  outline  stitch,  or  chain  stitch  would  be 
satisfactory.  If  the  top  is  thus  finished,  let  the  hem  be 
done  by  hand. 

A  still  daintier  apron  may  be  made  from  white  dimity 
or  a  fine,  delicate  gingham  or  batiste. 

Princess  Slip 

Materials.  Ladies  Home  Journal  pattern  No. 
8091  or  any  style  that  is  simple  and  unfitted.  Long 
cloth  of  good  grade,  from  two  and  one  half  yards  to 
three  yards,  according  to  the  size  of  the  girl.  White 
thread  No.  70  and  No.  90.  Needles  No.  8  and  No.  9. 
White  D.  M.  C.  or  O.  N.  T.  No.  25.  Narrow  lace  edge 
at  neck  and  sleeves,  either  hand  or  machine  made. 
For  flounce  one  and  one  third  times  the  width  of  skirt, 
—  long  cloth  or  embroidery. 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  49 


Directions.  Cut  according  to  pattern.  Finish 
with  French  seams.  Turn  an  eighth-inch  hem  at  neck; 
one-inch  hems  at  back.  Set  in  sleeve  with  French 
seam,  and  finish  with  an  eighth-inch  hem.  Divide 
the  flounce  into  fourths;  use  a  separate  thread  to  gather 
each  fourth  and  knot  the  thread  at  both  ends.  (Use 
the  coarser  thread.)  Place  one  rowT  of  gathers  an 
eighth  of  an  inch  from  the  edge  of  the  goods,  the  second 
row  an  eighth  of  an  inch  below  the  first.  Be  careful 
that  the  second  rowT  of  stitches  is  exactly  under  the  first. 
Draw  each  fourth  up  as  close  as  possible  and  pull  the 
gathers  gently  until  they  are  even  and  smooth. 

For  directions  for  placket,  see  under  "  Skirt."  Carry 
the  placket  nine  inches  below  the  normal  waist  line. 

Divide  the  slip  in  fourths  at  the  bottom.  Bring  the 
edge  of  the  flounce  to  the  edge  of  the  slip  wrong  sides 
together.  Pin  at  the  divisions  in  fourths.  Arrange 
the  gathers  evenly  and  baste  to  slip  with  even  basting 
between  the  rows  of  gathers.  Stitch.  Place  the  lower 
edge  of  the  bias  fold  exactly  over  the  lower  row  of 
gathering;  baste  with  even  basting;  baste  the  upper 
side  of  bias  fold  down.  Stitch  both  sides  close  to  the 
edge. 

The  edge  of  the  flounce,  if  made  of  the  goods,  may 
be  just  a  plain  hem  with  a  narrow  lace  trimming,  or  it 
may  be  finished  with  a  simple  decorative  stitch  such 
as  feather,  chain,  or  seed  stitch.  Let  the  same  stitch 
be  used  at  neck  and  sleeves.  Finish  the  back  with 
buttons  and  buttonholes. 


50   A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


One-piece  Dress 

Materials.  Gingham  or  percale;  preferably  ging- 
ham, because  it  is  softer  to  work  upon.  Choose  a  very 
simple  pattern  from  a  Butterick  fashion  book  and  give 
individuality  by  the  style  of  trimming.  Provide 
thread,  needles,  pins,  buttons,  as  for  the  princess  slip. 
Use  colored  0.  N.  T.  or  D.  M.  C.  No.  5  or  the  six  strand 
No.  25  to  harmonize  with  the  material. 

Directions.  Cut  according  to  directions  on  pattern. 
Finish  with  French  seams.  If  sleeves  are  set  in,  bind 
with  bias  folds.  Try  on  before  sewing  in  sleeves  or 
turning  hem.  If  made  up  without  shrinking,  allow 
one  to  two  inches  for  shrinking.  Finish  with  buttons 
and  buttonholes  like  the 
princess  slip.  If  a  round 
neck  is  desired,  face  on  right 
side  with  a  narrow  fold  of  the 
goods  and  finish  with  some 
simple  embroidery  stitch. 


Dusting  Cap 

Draft  for  Cap.  Draw 
a  rectangle  eight  inches  by 
thirteen  inches.  Mark  the 
corners  in  order  1,  2,  3,  4. 
Divide  the  long  sides  into 
halves.  Mark  the  point  between  1  and  2,  5  and  the 
one  between  3  and  4,  6. 


Draft  for  Cap. 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  EI^ENTARY  SEWING  51 

Draw  a  line  diagonally  from  corner  4  to  point  5.  " 
From  4  on  this  line  4-5  measure  three  inches  and 
mark  7. 


Straight  piece 

Dusting  Cap. 


Draw  a  curved  line  from  corner  1  to  point  6,  passing 
through  the  diagonal  4-5  at  7. 

Starting  at  1,  cut  through  the  curving  line  to  7,  from 
7  through  6  down  to  3,  from  3  across  to  2,  from  2  back 
to  1.  Write  on  the  long  straight  edge  the  words  "  Place 
on  lengthwise  fold." 

Materials  for  Cap.  One  piece  of  gingham  or 
crepe  fourteen  inches  long  by  sixteen  inches  wide.  One 
piece  of  gingham  or  crepe  twenty  inches  long  by  five 
inches  wide.  WTiite  or  colored  D.  M.  C.  No.  5  or  No.  8. 
No.  8  needle,  No.  5  crewel  needle,  No.  70  white  thread. 


52   A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


Directions.  Fold  the  larger  piece  of  gingham  so 
that  it  will  be  eight  inches  wide  by  fourteen  inches  long. 
Place  the  long  straight  edge  of  the  pattern  on  this  fold; 
pin  firmly;  cut  to  the  pattern  around  the  curving  edge. 
Leave  the  fold  uncut. 

Place  two  rows  of  gathers  along  the  curving  edge  and 
down  the  straight  sides.  On  the  lower  edge  turn  a 
half-inch  hem  and  hem  fine.  On  the  ends  and  down 
one  long  side  of  the  piece  that  is  twenty  inches  long, 
place  a  half-inch  hem.  Featherstitch  with  the  em- 
broidery cotton.  Join  the  crown  and  this  with  a  French 
seam,  being  careful  that  the  featherstitching  is  on  the 
outside  of  the  cap  and  that  the  gathers  are  evenly 
distributed.  Make  an  eyelet  in  the  middle  of  the  hem 
at  the  back  of  the  cap;  run  the  tape  in  from  the  seams 
on  the  sides,  sewing  it  on  firmly,  and  tie  it  at  the  eyelet. 


SCHC^L  OF  I'lEE  ECONOMICS 

STATE  NORMAL  SCHOOL 


SEVENTH  AND  EIGHTH  GRADES 

In  the  seventh  and  eighth  grades  the  pupils  may  make 
a  full  set  of  underwear  for  themselves  and  finish  with  a 
simple  wash  dress.  Every  article  made  should  have 
a  touch  of  hand  decoration,  and  each  one  should  be 
a  little  more  difficult  than  the  preceding  one.  The 
patterns  for  the  dress  and  for  the  combination  suit  may 
be  selected  according  to  the  prevailing  style.  The 
skirt  may  be  drafted,  and  the  nightdress  decoration 
should  be  easily  worked  on  the  cloth  itself.  Make  a 
plain  kimono  style.  Buy  twice  the  length  of  cloth, 
measuring  from  the  neck,  at  the  shoulder,  to  the  floor, 
allowing  two  inches  extra  for  hem  and  shrinkage. 


53 


SUPPLEMENTARY  WORK 


Small  Size  Skirt  for  Doll 

Materials.  Two  pieces  of  flannel  or  outing  flannel 
nine  inches  long  by  seven  and  one  half  inches  wide. 
White  sewing  silk,  pink  or  white  twist,  white  thread 
No.  60,  No.  8  needle,  two  pieces  of  tape  six  inches  long 
by  one  fourth  of  an  inch  wide. 

Directions.  Sew  the  two  breadths  of  flannel  to- 
gether with  combination  stitch,  one  edge  overlapping 
the  other  by  an  eighth  of  an  inch.  Make  seam  a  little 
less  than  one  fourth  of  an  inch  deep.  Turn  longer 
edge  over  flat  and  cross  or  catch  stitch  with  fine,  close 
stitch. 

Cut  down  the  middle  of  one  breadth  two  and  one  half 
inches.  From  the  right-hand  side  of  the  skirt  turn  over 
a  half-inch  hem.  From  the  left-hand  side  turn  over  an 
eighth-inch  hem.    Catch  stitch  with  fine,  close  stitch. 

At  the  bottom  of  this  placket  fold  the  half-inch 
hem  over  flat  and  catch  stitch  or  place  two  rows  of  fine 
stitching  across. 

Turn  an  inch  hem  at  bottom;  baste  and  catch  stitch. 

One  fourth  of  an  inch  from  top,  double  gather  fine, 
each  half  by  itself.  Fold  band  lengthwise  and  place 
54 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  55 


center  to  the  center  of  the  skirt  at  the  top.  Arrange 
the  gathers  evenly  and  baste.  Stitch  just  below  gather- 
ing thread.  Fold  over  one  fourth  of  an  inch  of  the 
band,  then  turn  down  over  the  gathers  and  baste. 
Hem  fine. 

Insert  the  tape  one  fourth  of  an  inch  into  the  ends  of 
the  band  and  hem  down  on  both  sides.  Finish  the 
ends  of  tape  with  a  fourth-inch  hem. 

Around  the  upper  edge  of  the  hem,  place  a  row  of 
featherstitching  worked  in  twist. 

Lawn  Apron.    Doll's  Size 

Materials.  White  lawn  or  muslin  five  inches  long  by 
seven  inches  wide;  white  thread  No.  70;  No.  9  needle. 

Directions.  Turn  an  eighth-inch  hem  on  sides  and 
a  half-inch  hem  on  bottom  of  apron;  hem. 

Place  a  row  of  fine  running  stitches  one  eighth  inch 
from  top  of  cloth;  then  one  eighth  inch  below.  Mark 
the  middle  of  top  with  a  cross  stitch. 

Straighten  the  gathers  carefully  by  gently  pulling 
them  while  on  the  needle  or  by  pushing  them  along  the 
thread  and  under  the  thumb  and  finger. 

Cut  a  band  one  and  one  half  inches  wide  and  seven 
inches  long.  Fold  evenly  and  pin  the  middle  of  the 
band  to  the  middle  of  the  gathers  on  the  right  side  of  the 
apron. 

Carry  the  gathers  to  within  two  inches  of  the  end  of 
the  band;  baste  with  even  basting  and  stitch  on  the 
gathers. 


56   A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


Fold  over  and  baste  down  over  the  stitching,  turning 
in  the  raw  edge  one  fourth  inch.  Hem  across  the  apron 
and  top  sew  the  ends. 

This  apron  may  be  trimmed  with  lace  or  it  may  be 
hemstitched,  as  the  pupil  may  desire. 

Magazine  Cover 

Materials.  Brown  linen,  half-inch  binding  ribbon, 
brown  thread,  No.  8  needle. 

Directions.  Cut  the  size  desired;  draw  threads 
until  even.  Miter  the  corners;  making  the  hem  about 
two  inches  wide.  Find  the  center  of  the  folded  sides 
and  measure  out,  on  the  edge  of  the  hem,  one  half  to  one 
inch  from  this  center  (according  to  the  thickness  of  the 

magazine).  Cut  to 
the  center  line,  leav- 
ing one  fourth  inch 
from  the  folded  edge 
uncut.  Bind  with 
the  ribbon. 

Decorate  with  a 
stenciled  design  or 
with  a  bit  of  simple 

Inside  of  Magazine  Cover.  embroidery. 

Laundry  Bag 

Materials.  Fine  checked  gingham  (blue  and 
white)  thirty  inches  long  and  eleven  or  twelve  inches 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  57 


wide.  No.  70  white  thread.  Peri  Lusta  embroidery 
cotton.    Size  D.    Color,  shade  311. 

Directions.  Overcast  long  sides.  Fold  the  ends 
over  two  and  three  fourths  inches.  Stitch  these  over- 
cast edges  together  to  within  three  fourths  inch  of 
bottom  of  folded  end;  turn  this  seam  under  and  finish 
with  a  two  and  one  half  inch  hem.  One  half  inch  above 
edge  of  hem  place  a  row  of  fine  running  stitches. 


Laundry  Bag. 


About  six  inches  down  from  the  hem  work  a  cross- 
stitch  design,  using  the  Peri  Lusta  cotton.  (Allow 
each  child  to  work  from  her  own  original  design,  placing 
this  design  on  one  or  both  sides  of  the  bag.) 

Bring  the  sides  together  and  baste  from  hem  to  fold 
of  cloth:  stitch,  making  a  fourth  inch  seam. 


58   A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


Run  double  cords  or  ribbons  through  the  half-inch 
openings  in  the  hem. 

Rubber  Bag 

Materials.  Half  a  yard  of  chambray,  gingham,  or 
linen. 

Directions.  Cut  a  strip  of  cloth  fifteen  inches  by 
twelve  and  one  half  inches,  also  cut  from  the  same 
material  two  circles,  each  having  a  diameter  of  four 
inches. 

Upon  the  two  twelve  and  one  half  inch  ends  of  the 
strip  make  a  fourth-inch  fold,  both  folds  turning  upon 


Rubber  Bag  showing  Featherstttching  with  Needle 

in  POSITION. 


the  wrong  side  of  the  cloth.  Turn  again,  forming  an 
inch  hem.  Baste.  Hem  one  of  the  sides  thus  folded. 
Featherstitch  the  other  upon  the  right  side  of  the 
material.  Fold  the  featherstitched  side  of  the  hem 
over  the  other  and  pin  in  place  at  both  ends,  making  an 
inch  lap.  Take  one  of  the  circles  and  arrange  at  one 
end  of  bag  in  such  a  way  that  the  seam  will  come  inside 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENT A&Y  §Svrt8fc  59 

the  bag.  Pin  carefully  and  baste  a  fourth-inch  seam; 
backstitch  seam;  trim  and  overcast.  Arrange  the 
second  circle  at  the  other  end  of  bag,  and  baste  and  sew 
in  the  same  way. 

Finish  ends  of  bag  by  featherstitching  the  circles  on 
the  right  side  a  fourth  of  an  inch  from  circumference. 
If  desired,  the  word  "  Rubbers  "  may  be  stamped  and 
outlined  upon  the  upper  part  of  bag.  If  lettering  is 
to  be  done,  it  must  be  stamped  before  bag  is  made. 

Fasten  bag  with  three  hooks  and  eyes  placed  at 
intervals  of  three  inches.  The  hooks  should  be  placed 
on  the  under  and  further  edge  of  featherstitched  hem 
and  sewed  on  by  means  of  buttonhole  stitches  worked 
around  the  wider  base  of  the  hook,  then  securely 
fastened  either  at  front  end  of  hook,  or  under  the 
"  hump/'  by  means  of  four  straight  stitches.  The 
straight  metal  eyes  may  be  used  and  placed  at  corre- 
sponding intervals  on  the  upper  side  of  under  hem. 

For  featherstitching,  D.  M.  C.  embroidery  cotton 
(No.  20)  may  be  used. 

Sewing  Case 

Materials.  Outing  flannel  or  wool  flannel  eight 
and  one  half  inches  by  five  and  one  half  inches,  blue 
outing  flannel  or  ribbon  five  inches  by  twelve  inches, 
two  small  pieces  of  flannel  two  inches  by  three  inches, 
colored  crochet  cotton  or  D.  M.  C,  blue  and  yellow  or 
white  ;  crewel  needles;  three  fourths  yard  of  half -inch 
ribbon. 


60   A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 

Directions.  Turn  a  fourth-inch  fold  around  the 
flannel  or  white  daisy  cloth;  catch  stitch  this  with  the 
crochet  cotton.  Measure  up  from  one  end  four  inches, 
and  run  in  three  squares  of  darning  in  contrasting  color. 
Fold  back  two  inches  at  the  same  end  and  baste;  top 
sew  the  ends,  catch  stitch  through  the  center  to  make 
two  small  pockets;  blanket  stitch  around  three  sides 
of  the  small  pieces;  arrange  them  evenly  half  an  inch 
from  the  other  end  and  blanket  stitch  them  firmly  in 
place.  If  ribbon  is  used,  arrange  case  evenly  on  the 
ribbon  and  pin  in  position;  turn  half-inch  hems  at  the 
ends  of  ribbon  and  catch  stitch;  place  this  on  the 
narrow  ribbon  evenly  and  catch  stitch  together.  If 
the  blue  daisy  cloth  is  used,  blanket  stitch  around  the 
edge,  then  fasten  to  the  inner  piece  and  place  the  whole 
upon  the  narrow  ribbon  (which  may  be  blue  or  white) 
and  fasten  as  in  the  earlier  case. 

Sewing  Apron 

Materials.  One  and  one  half  yards  of  lawn,  dimity, 
or  organdie;  wash  embroidery  silk  or  embroidery  cotton 
(D.  M.  C.  No.  20,  or  Peri  Lusta  E.  fine).  No.  70  white 
thread. 

Directions.  Cut  apron  according  to  pattern  given 
in  illustration.  Cut  band  two  inches  wide  and  two 
inches  longer  than  waist  measure.  If  strings  are  de- 
sired, cut  band  width  of  apron  and  cut  the  strings 
twenty-four  inches  long  by  three  and  one  half  wide. 

Gather  a  ruffle  from  middle  to  ends;  place  first  row 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  61 


one  eighth  of  an  inch  from  top  and  the  second  one  eighth 
of  an  inch  below.  Fit  ruffle  to  bottom  of  front  gore ; 
baste  with  even  basting  between  the  rows  of  gathers, 
then  sew  with  combination  stitch  below  the  basting. 
Flace  this  seam  on  the  right  side.  Turn  top  of  pocket 
forming  an  eighth  of  an  inch  hem:  baste  and  feather- 
stitch. Turn  one  eighth  on  the  bottom,  baste  evenly 
over  the  top  of  the  ruffle,  and  featherstitch.  Find 
middle  of  pocket,  crease  evenly,  and  featherstitch  to 
apron. 


Pattern  foe  Apeon,  one  eighth  size. 


Baste  the  side  gores  to  the  front,  arranging  for  French 
seams;  finish  with  eighth-inch  seams,  using  the  com- 
bination stitch. 

Turn  an  eighth-inch  hem  around  sides  and  bottom 


62    A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


of  apron,  baste  with  even  basting;  featherstitch.  Place 
middle  of  band  to  middle  of  apron  on  the  right  side; 
baste  to  apron,  making  a  fourth-inch  seam;  stitch. 

Towel 

Materials.  Huckaback  linen  or  cotton.  D.  M.  C. 
No.  12-16. 

Directions.  Even  ends  of  goods  by  a  thread. 
Prepare  a  one  and  one  half  inch  hem  and  draw  four 
threads. 

Hemstitch. 

Two  inches  above  the  hem  embroider  the  monogram 
or  initials. 

To  Embroider  the  Initials.  Select  a  simple  style  of 
letter  and  transfer  to  the  towel  by  tracing  over  transfer 
paper.  (This  method  is  the  simplest  and,  where  only  a 
very  little  is  to  be  done,  may  be  used  satisfactorily.) 
Pad  the  letter  by  rilling  the  space  with  rows  of  running 
stitches  done  with  the  four-fold  darning  cotton.  Chain 
stitch  may  be  used,  but  the  result  is  less  even. 

The  embroidery  stitch  used  is  the  simplest  form  of 
satin  stitch.  Where  the  initial  runs  parallel  with  the 
threads  of  the  cloth,  make  over  and  over  stitches  close 
together.  Let  the  needle  enter  the  cloth  exactly  at 
one  edge  of  the  pattern  and  come  out  exactly  at  the 
other.  You  must  have  a  perfectly  even  edge  if  the 
result  is  to  be  good.  As  the  pattern  curves,  slant  the 
stitches,  being  careful  that  the  stitches  are  close  together 
so  that  no  padding  shows. 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  63 


Towel  with  Swedish  Weaving 

Materials.  One  yard  or  three  fourths  of  a  yard  of 
linen  toweling,  huck  preferred.  Two  or  more  skeins 
of  No.  8,  D.  M.  C.  or  O.  N.  T.  to  correspond  in  number. 
No.  50  white  thread.  No.  5  crewel  needles  and  No.  8 
sewing  needles. 

Directions.  Measure  in  three  and  one  fourth 
inches  at  each  end  and  draw  threads  until  you  have 
about  one  inch  of  space  drawn.  Turn  in  one  fourth  of 
an  inch  at  the  edge,  bring  this  to  the  edge  of  the  drawn 
space,  and  baste  with  even  basting.  Hemstitch,  taking 
up  about  five  threads  each  time.  Use  the  No.  50 
thread  for  this  work.  With  the  embroidery  cotton, 
begin  and  weave  in  and  out  through  the  drawn  space, 
taking  up  the  same  number  of  threads  that  were  used 
in  hemstitching  and  passing  over  the  same  number. 
The  illustration  (see  Frontispiece)  gives  one  simple 
pattern  easily  worked  out.  If  desired,  one  end  of  the 
towel  may  be  finished  with  plain  hemstitching  and  the 
other  with  the  weaving. 

Damask  Hemming 

Materials.  White  linen  six  or  six  and  one  half 
inches  square.    No.  9  needle.    No.  70  white  thread. 

Directions.  Draw  threads  in  the  linen,  making  as 
large  a  square  as  possible.  On  opposite  sides  turn  and 
baste  an  eighth-inch  hem.  Holding  the  wrong  side 
toward  you,  fold  and  crease  the  cloth  back,  so  as  to 


64    A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


make  it  even  with  the  first  fold  of  the  hem.  Top  sew 
very  fine.  Turn  hems  on  two  remaining  sides,  baste, 
top  sew  ends,  and  then  sides  as  before.  Finish  with 
lace,  —  torchon  or  any  variety  that  is  suitable  to  the 
linen;  follow  the  directions  given  for  sewing  on  of  lace. 

Doily 

Materials.  Heavy  white  linen.  No.  7  needle. 
Embroidery  cotton  No.  25,  6  strand,  white. 

Directions.  With  a  spool,  mark  simple  scallops 
around  the  linen,  making  it  the  size  desired.  Pad 
slightly  with  long  outline  stitches,  using  white  darning 
cotton.  Blanket  stitch  over  these  stitches,  but  keep 
the  stitches  close  together  and  the  edges  perfectly  even. 
When  finished,  trim  the  cloth  to  the  edge  of  the  em- 
broidery and  then  buttonhole  around  the  entire  edge  with 
ordinary  cotton  thread.  This  buttonholing  will  keep 
the  linen  from  fraying  and  give  a  smoother  edge. 

Corset  Cover 

Materials.  One  yard  of  cambric,  dimity,  or  long 
cloth.  Two  and  three  fourths  yards  of  lace.  One  and 
three  fourths  yards  of  beading.  D.  M.  C.  or  O.  N.  T. 
No.  25,  single  strand,  white.  No.  70  white  thread. 
Nos.  8  and  9  needles. 

Directions.  Select  a  pattern  having  shoulder  and 
under-arm  seams.  Make  flat  fell  seams.  Turn  an 
eight-inch  hem  around  the  top.    Turn  one-inch  hems 


seirioF 


: ECONOMICS 


STATE  NORMAL 


L  SCHOOL 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  65 

down  the  front.  Face  armholes  with  fourth-inch  fac- 
ings. Gather  the  bottom  from  about  two  inches  in 
front  of  the  under-arm  seam  to  front  hem,  using  twTo 
rows  of  gathers,  the  first  one  eighth  of  an  inch  from  the 
bottom,  the  second  one  eighth  of  an  inch  above  the 
first.  Finish  the  bottom  with  a  band  three  fourths  of 
an  inch  wide  when  finished.  (This  band  should  be  torn 
two  inches  wide  and  two  inches  longer  than  the  waist 
measure  taken  loosely.)  Featherstitch  the  top  and  the 
front  hems  with  the  embroidery  cotton.  Finish  with 
the  lace  and  beading,  and  run  lingerie  tape  into  the 
beading,  or  crochet  a  tiny  cord  and  run  this  through. 

If  preferred,  seed  stitch  or  outline  stitch  may  be  sub- 
stituted for  the  featherstitching. 


Materials.  One  and  one  half  yards  of  fine  cheese- 
cloth, silkolene,  or  batiste;  wash  embroidery  silk  to 
match  material.  No.  70  thread.  One  half  yard  nar- 
row ribbon  to  match  goods. 

Directions.  Even  ends  by  a  thread.  Fold  one 
selvage  edge  together  evenly.  Baste;  find  the  middle 
of  this  seam,  measure  out  from  the  center  along  the 
seam  one  and  one  half  inches.  From  this  point  sew  to 
edge  with  the  combination  stitch,  making  an  eighth- 
inch  seam.  Bind  the  open  part  with  the  ribbon  and 
featherstitch  along  the  edge  of  the  ribbon.  If  wished, 
more  ribbon  may  be  used  and  a  rosette  or  bow  placed 
at  one  side  or  in  the  middle. 


Waist  Protector 


66   A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


Turn  a  fourth-inch  hem  down  the  open  side  and  a 
one-inch  hem  at  the  bottom.  Baste  with  even  basting 
and  featherstitch  along  the  edge  of  the  hem.  Use 
either  single  or  double  featherstitching. 

Table  Cover  or  Table  Runner 

Materials.  Linen  or  gingham.  One  yard  or  one 
and  one  fourth  yards.    Linen-colored  thread. 

Directions.  If  square  cover  is  desired,  use  one  yard 
of  thirty-six  inch  linen  (natural  color)  or  a  square  of  the 
narrower  kind.  Finish  with  a  two-inch  hem,  making 
mitered  corners. 

Place  a  stenciled  design  at  the  corner  inside  the  hem, 
working  out  the  design  as  part  of  the  regular  art  work. 

To  make  a  runner,  use  one  and  one  fourth  yards  of 
linen  or  linen-colored  gingham ;  finish  with  one  and  one 
half  inch  hems  on  the  sides  and  a  three-inch  hem  at  the 
bottom;  miter  the  corners  as  before.  Place  stenciled 
design  above  the  three-inch  hems. 

If  desired,  both  of  these  covers  may  be  hemstitched. 

Kimono 

Materials.  Japanese  crepe  or  ripplette.  Simple, 
narrow  lace  not  over  one  inch  in  width.  Embroidery 
cotton  to  harmonize  with  the  materials.  A  simple 
pattern  for  a  short  kimono.  White  thread  No.  70. 
Sewing  needles  No.  8.    Crewel  needle  No.  6. 

Directions.  Buy  the  pattern  first.  Buy  the 
amount  of  material  required  by  the  pattern,  and  cut  care- 


SCn  OF  "%l  ECONDIIK 

STATE  NORMAL  SCHOOL 

A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  67 

fully  according  to  directions.  Finish  with  French  seams. 
Turn  an  eighth-inch  hem  around  the  kimono;  baste  with 
even  basting  stitches;  featherstitch  or  chain  stitch  with 
the  embroidery  cotton.  Top  sew  the  lace  on,  giving 
just  a  little  fullness  where  needed.  Fasten  with  rosettes 
of  the  material.  Adapt  the  weight  of  the  lace  to  the 
material  used;  a  much  heavier  variety  will  be  needed 
for  the  crepe  than  for  the  ripplette.  German  Valen- 
ciennes will  prove  satisfactory  for  the  ripplette,  but  a 
light-weight  Cluny  will  be  better  for  the  heavier  crepe. 

Fancy  Apron 

Pattern  for  Apron.  Enlarge  the  one  given  eight 
times. 

Materials.  Use  fine  lawn  or  nainsook.  One  yard 
of  material  is  required.  Three  and  one  half  yards  of 
lace;  one  and  one  half  yards  of  insertion;  No.  9  needle; 
No.  90  thread. 

Directions.  Turn  a  very  narrow  hem  on  the  sides 
and  bottom  of  each  gore  of  the  apron.  Hem  fine. 
Put  the  gores  together  with  the  insertion,  basting  care- 
fully, and  then  top  sewing  very  fine.  Carry  the  inser- 
tion around  the  top  of  the  center  gore,  for  this  gives  the 
bib  of  the  apron.  Cut  two  bands,  each  eight  inches 
long  and  one  and  one  half  inches  wide.  Cut  the  strings 
three  inches  wide  and  twenty-four  inches  long.  Hem 
the  long  sides  and  one  end.  Gather  the  other  end  and 
sew  neatly  into  the  ends  of  the  bands.  Sew  the  bands 
on  to  the  side  gores  in  the  usual  way,  top  sewing  the 


68    A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


Fancy  Apron,  one-eighth  size. 


ends  to  the 
insertion  and 
top  sewing 
the  portion 
that  extends 
beyond  the 
gores.  Top 
sew  the  lace 
around  the 
entire  apron, 
following  the 
general  direc- 
tions for  sew- 
ing on  lace. 
Place  lace  on 
the  ends  of 
the  strings 
only. 


Underskirt 

Take  the  waist  and  skirt  measure  of  each  girl  and  add 
five  inches  to  the  skirt  length. 

Pattern  of  Skirt.  Place  paper  on  desk.  Make 
measurements  out  and  down  from  upper  corner  of  paper. 

Directions. 

Front  gore. 

Out  from  corner  measure  1-6  of  waist  measure  and 

mark  A 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING  69 


Down  from  corner  on  outer  edge  of  paper  measure 

\  inch  and  mark   .  B 

Down  from  B,  measure  skirt  length  plus  5  inches 

and  mark  C 

Out  from  C,  measure  12  inches  and  mark    .    .    .  D 

Connect  A  and  D  with  a  straight  line. 


Pattern  foe  Front  and  Side  Gore  of  Skirt. 


Down  from  A  on  this  straight  line  measure  skirt 
length  plus  5  inches  and  mark  E 

Connect  A  and  B  with  a  free-hand  curve. 

Connect  C  and  E  with  a  free-hand  curve. 

Cut  on  curve  A  and  B.    Straight  line  A  and  E  and 
curve  E  and  C« 


70   A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 

Mark  straight  edge  of  length  of  paper  with  these 
words:  "  Place  on  lengthwise  fold  of  cloth." 
Mark  "  half  front  gore." 
Side  gore. 

Measure  out  from  corner  \  waist  measure  and  mark 
Measure  down  from  corner  \  of  an  inch  and  mark 
Measure  down  from  B  skirt  length  plus  5  inches  and 

mark  

Measure  out  from  C  15  inches  and  mark     .    .  . 
Connect  A  and  D  with  a  straight  line. 
Measure  from  A  down  this  straight  line  skirt  length 

plus  5  inches  and  mark  

Connect  C  and  E  with  a  free-hand  curve. 
Connect  A  and  B  with  a  free-hand  curve. 
Cut  on  curves  and  line  A-D.    Notch  gored  side 

twice  and  mark  "  side  gore."   Notch  straight 

edge  once. 

Back  Breadth.  Draft  as  you  did  the  side  breadth 
but  take  one  third  of  waist  measure  at  top  and  eighteen 
inches  at  the  bottom. 

Materials  for  Skirt.  Long  cloth,  cambric,  or 
muslin;  three  lengths  should  be  sufficient,  if  you  add 
to  each  the  extra  five  inches.  The  flounce  may  be  of 
the  cloth  or  of  edging.  Allow  one  third  more  than  the 
width  of  the  skirt.    No.  70  white  thread;  No.  8  needles. 

If  desired  make  the  skirt  of  flannel,  or  flannelette,  or 
outing  flannel.  In  this  case  buy  more  material,  as  the 
outing  flannel  is  not  so  wide. 


A 
B 


C 
D 


SCHCLOFtlKECONBiCS 

A  HANDBOOK  OI«mm^N1ri^^cSi^^G  71 

Note.  If  made  of  flannel,  finish  the  seams  with  a 
flat  fell  and  simply  featherstitch  around  the  edge  of  the 
hem.    Make  the  placket  and  also  the  band  of  long  cloth. 

Directions  for  Cutting  the  Underskirt.  Fold 
one  piece  lengthwise.  On  this  fold  place  the  straight 
edge  of  the  front  gore.  Pin  securely  in  place  and  cut, 
leaving  the  fold  untouched. 

On  the  straight  selvage  edge,  place  the  straight  side 
of  the  side  gore.  Pin  in  place  and  cut.  Turn  upside 
down  and  fit  in  the  other  side.  Cut.  Arrange  the  back 
breadths  in  the  same  way  and  pin  and  cut.  Lay  the 
entire  pattern  on  and  try  it  before  cutting  any,  so  as  to 
use  the  cloth  to  the  best  advantage. 

Directions  for  Making.  Finish  with  French 
seams.  Make  a  continuous  placket.  Finish  the  top 
with  a  band  one  inch  wide  when  made.  Place  a  button 
and  buttonhole  in  the  ends.  Turn  an  inch  and  one 
half  hem.  For  the  flounce  see  directions  for  princess 
slip. 

To  Make  the  Placket.  Leave  nine  inches  at  the 
top  of  the  back  seam  unfinished.  Cut  a  lengthwise 
strip  of  cloth  eighteen  inches  long  by  two  and  one  half 
inches  wide.  Beginning  at  the  top,  on  the  right  side, 
place  the  placket  strip  against  the  skirt,  edge  to  edge, 
and  baste,  one  eighth  inch  from  the  edge,  with  even 
basting  stitches;  when  at  the  bottom  of  the  opening, 
turn  and  baste  up  the  other  side.  Stitch  just  below  the 
basting.  Turn  one  fourth  inch  on  the  raw  edge; 
crease;  fold  over  the  first  stitching  and  pin  in  place. 


72   A  HANDBOOK  OF  ELEMENTARY  SEWING 


Baste.  Hem  down  the  left-hand  side  and  half  an  inch 
up  the  right-hand  side.  Crease  this  side  firmly. 
Remove  the  basting.  Cut  out  the  under  portion  to 
within  a  fourth  of  an  inch  of  the  crease.  Turn  the 
remaining  portion  of  the  cloth  to  the  wrong  side,  make 
the  edge  even  with  the  seam,  so  that  none  shows  on  the 
right  side,  baste  and  sew  like  any  hem.  At  the 
bottom  of  the  hem,  place  two  rows  of  stitching  an 
eighth  of  an  inch  apart,  just  the  width  of  the  hem. 
This  strengthens  the  placket  at  the  bottom. 


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